In this Indonesian sayur lodeh, pumpkin takes center stage: large pieces simmer in a fragrant sauce of coconut milk, garlic, shallot, galangal and mild chili. Serve as a vegetable side dish with rice.
Sayur lodeh is an Indonesian vegetable dish made with coconut milk, but there is no single set combination of ingredients. The vegetables, spices and heat vary from region to region and from one household to another. Pumpkin works well in the mild, creamy sauce: it absorbs the aromas of garlic, shallot and galangal, while its slightly sweet flavor rounds out the chili. This is a simple version that puts pumpkin at the heart of the dish, without extra vegetables taking over the sauce or texture.
Cut the pumpkin into pieces about 3 centimeters across. Small cubes cook faster and are more likely to fall apart; generous pieces keep their shape while the inside turns tender. Use a firm pumpkin such as butternut squash or another orange winter squash. In the Netherlands, winter squash is widely available in fall and winter, but it generally keeps longer than tender summer produce. Peel the pumpkin if the skin is tough; with some varieties, the skin may become soft enough to eat after cooking.
Galangal, also called laos, has a fresh, citrusy, slightly peppery aroma that is different from ginger. Bruise the slices to release their aroma and, if you like, remove them from the pan before serving; they stay firm and are not meant to be eaten as a bite. Fresh red chili with the seeds removed adds gentle heat. Use a little more for a spicier result, or leave out the chili if you want a mild sauce. If fresh galangal is unavailable, use a smaller amount of ginger as a practical substitute, bearing in mind that the flavor will be different.
Briefly fry the aromatics in oil first. This lets the shallot and garlic become fragrant before you add the coconut milk. Then let the pumpkin simmer gently in a mixture of coconut milk and water. A vigorous boil won’t stop the pumpkin from cooking, but it makes it harder to keep the sauce even and can damage the pieces more quickly when you stir. So stir gently and check with the tip of a knife: it should slide easily into the pumpkin while the pieces remain firm.
The sauce should coat the pumpkin, not hide it. If it is too thin after cooking, simmer it gently for a short time without a lid; if it is very thick, stir in a splash of water. Serve the sayur lodeh warm as a vegetable side dish with steamed rice, for example alongside other Indonesian dishes. Cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and eat them within three days; reheat over low heat, stirring gently so the pumpkin stays whole.
Chop the shallots, garlic and chili. Peel the pumpkin if needed and cut it into generous pieces. Bruise the galangal slices with the side of a knife.
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Cook the shallot for 2 minutes until softened. Add the garlic, chili and galangal and cook for 1 minute, without letting the garlic brown.
Add the pumpkin, coconut milk, water and salt to the pan. Bring gently to a simmer, then turn the heat to low.
Simmer gently for 12–18 minutes, depending on the type of pumpkin and the size of the pieces. Stir gently from time to time. The pumpkin is ready when a knife slides in easily, but the pieces are still whole.
Taste the sauce and add a little salt if needed. If the sauce is thin, simmer gently for a few minutes without a lid. Remove the galangal if you like, and serve warm, for example with rice.
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