Broken vermicelli is fried until golden brown, then gently simmered in milk with cardamom, cinnamon and raisins. Toasted almonds give this creamy sawine a crunchy topping just before serving.
Sawine is a vermicelli pudding made in the Indo-Surinamese kitchen. The combination of milk, spices, raisins and noodles is familiar, but the proportions and additions vary from household to household. Sawine is eaten on festive occasions, among others, and is associated with Eid al-Fitr for many people. It is a dessert that doesn't call for many ingredients, but does benefit from careful attention to the pan and the heat.
The first step determines much of the flavor: the vermicelli is fried in fat until golden brown before the milk is added. This gives the pudding a lightly toasted, nutty note that pairs beautifully with the warm aroma of cardamom and cinnamon. Fry over medium-low heat and keep tossing; thin strands brown quickly and can burn. Use regular thin wheat vermicelli, not precooked instant noodles. Break long strands into shorter pieces beforehand so they're easier to eat.
As it simmers gently, the vermicelli absorbs the milk and the mixture becomes thick and spoonable. Stir regularly along the bottom of the pan to prevent sticking. The pudding will thicken further after cooking, so take it off the heat when it's a little looser than you want it to be. The raisins soften and become juicy in the warm milk. Ground cardamom gives an even flavor; if you prefer whole spices, simmer crushed pods in the pudding and remove them before serving.
Ghee gives the vermicelli a rich flavor, while unsalted butter is a practical substitute. Almonds add a distinct crunch, but toasted cashews work well too. Keep the nuts separate until serving so they stay crunchy. The pudding is soft and creamy as it is; a handful of extra raisins or nuts is enough, since too many toppings can overpower the spiced milk.
Serve sawine lukewarm, when the cardamom comes through clearly and the pudding still slips easily off the spoon. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated within two hours, and used within two days. The pudding thickens further as it cools. Reheat it gently in a pan, stirring in a splash of milk until it returns to the desired consistency; sprinkle over the almonds just before eating.
Toast the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat, shaking the pan regularly, until lightly golden brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Melt the ghee or butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the broken vermicelli and fry, tossing, until golden brown; keep a close eye on the strands so they don't burn.
Pour in the milk and add the cinnamon stick, cardamom, sugar, raisins and pinch of salt. Stir well.
Bring gently to a boil and simmer for 12–15 minutes. Stir regularly along the bottom and sides of the pan, until the vermicelli is soft and the milk has thickened to a pudding-like consistency. Remove the cinnamon stick.
Let the sawine stand for a few minutes; it will thicken a little more. Divide among bowls while lukewarm and sprinkle with the toasted flaked almonds.
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