Tender savoy cabbage leaves wrap around a hearty filling of barley, golden-browned mushrooms and walnuts. The rolls cook in a light tomato broth; fresh herb yogurt adds contrast.
Savoy cabbage is sturdy enough to use as a wrapper, but after a brief blanch it becomes pliable and mild. The crinkled leaves are often somewhat irregular in shape, so choose ten large, intact leaves that are big enough to fold around a portion of filling. Savoy cabbage is widely available in autumn and winter. Outside that season, you can use pointed cabbage leaves in the same way, although they are usually narrower and take a little more skill to fill.
Barley gives the filling a pleasant bite and readily absorbs flavors. Pearl barley, which has had part of its bran layer removed, cooks faster than wholegrain barley and is practical here. If you use wholegrain barley, allow for a longer cooking time and follow the package directions; the grains should be tender but not mushy before you mix them with the mushrooms. Cremini mushrooms, chestnut mushrooms or a mixture with oyster mushrooms all work well. Chop them finely and fry them in a large, hot skillet, preferably in batches: if the pan is too crowded, they release moisture and steam instead of browning.
The walnuts add a slight bitterness and a crisp accent among the tender cabbage and barley. Chop the nuts coarsely so they remain distinct in the filling. Thyme goes well with the earthy mushrooms, while the tomato broth adds enough acidity and savory flavor without making the rolls heavy. Keep the liquid around the rolls as they cook; this softens the leaves and keeps them intact. A baking dish with a lid is handy, but tightly sealed aluminum foil works too.
You can prepare the barley and mushrooms ahead and store them in the fridge, or fill the rolls earlier in the day. Cool prepared components promptly and refrigerate them covered; finish the dish within two days. Reheat cooked rolls covered until piping hot all the way through. Serve them with the herbed yogurt dressing and, if you like, a simple green salad or extra bread to soak up the tomato broth. For a slightly sharper dressing, you can use a little more lemon; if you prefer, replace the walnuts with hazelnuts, which also go well with mushrooms.
Rinse the pearl barley. Bring it to a boil with 650 ml water and ½ tsp salt. Simmer gently for 25–30 minutes, until the grains are tender but still have some bite. Drain and leave to steam dry briefly.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the cabbage leaves in two batches for 2 minutes, until pliable. Transfer them to cold water, drain and pat dry. Trim the thickest part of the central rib to make it flatter without damaging the leaf.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Cook the onion over medium heat for 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 8–10 minutes, until their moisture has evaporated and the mushrooms are browned. Stir in the garlic and thyme during the last minute.
Mix the cooked barley, mushroom mixture and walnuts in a bowl. Season with black pepper and, if needed, a little salt. Divide the filling among the cabbage leaves. Fold the sides in and roll the leaves up tightly.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Stir the vegetable stock and passata together and pour into a baking dish. Arrange the rolls seam-side down in the dish. Cover with a lid or aluminum foil and cook for 30–35 minutes, until the cabbage is tender.
Stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, parsley and dill. Add 1–2 tbsp water until the dressing is spoonable, then season with salt and pepper.
Plate the rolls with a little tomato broth and serve with the herbed yogurt dressing.
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