ABOUT THIS RECIPEUmami with a Fresh, Crisp Bite
Oatmeal doesn't have to be sweet. In this bowl, white miso and a little butter give the porridge a rich, savory base, while pear adds juiciness and gentle sweetness. Hazelnuts bring a toasted, crunchy bite; chili oil adds a little warmth. Use the oil sparingly so it doesn't overpower the pear. The result is soft and creamy, but never bland: each spoonful gets something different from the toppings.
Coarse rolled oats hold their shape better than quick oats. Let them simmer gently and stir regularly along the bottom of the pan, especially toward the end. This helps them cook evenly and makes the porridge thick without sticking. The oats absorb liquid as they cook; if the porridge is thicker than you like, stir in a splash of warm water. Take the pan off the heat before adding the miso. If you like, first mix it with a spoonful of porridge in a small bowl so it blends in smoothly.
White miso is generally mild and slightly sweet, but the salt content varies by brand. Taste before adding extra salt; you usually won't need any. Another mild miso works too, though the flavor will be richer and saltier. Choose a ripe but still firm pear; a very soft pear is hard to cut into thin slices and can quickly feel mushy. Pears are readily available in fall and winter, but a firm store-bought pear works well outside those months too. No hazelnuts on hand? Almonds also add a toasted crunch.
Toast the hazelnuts in a dry skillet until fragrant and lightly browned in spots. Let them cool before roughly chopping them so they stay crisp. Make the oatmeal just before serving and add the pear slices and nuts at the last minute; this keeps the contrast between warm and soft and fresh and crisp distinct. Serve the bowl for breakfast, or make it a more substantial brunch portion with a little extra oatmeal. If you have porridge left over, let it cool quickly, cover and refrigerate it, then reheat it the next day with a splash of water until piping hot throughout. Add the fresh toppings after reheating.