LUNCH · NOORS KITCHENSavory Dutch baby with leeks and aged cheese
A light, golden-brown pancake with tall, crisp edges, topped with tender leeks, tangy mustard and grated aged cheese. Lemon keeps the rich topping fresh; delicious for lunch for two.
ABOUT THIS RECIPEA hot pan, tender leeks
A Dutch baby gets its striking shape from batter that rises quickly in a piping-hot, oven-safe pan. The result falls somewhere between a thin pancake and a light casserole: the edges turn crisp and brown, while the center stays soft. Use a cast-iron pan or a sturdy metal frying pan about 24 cm across. A pan that’s good and hot helps the batter rise right away; a cold pan won’t give you edges that are as tall.
The batter is simple: egg, milk, flour and salt. Whisk just until smooth and, if you like, let it stand for five minutes while the oven heats up. A few small lumps are fine; whisking for longer won’t improve the batter. The milk and eggs are easiest to work with when they aren’t ice-cold. Put the pan in the oven with the butter or oil only once the oven is fully up to temperature, then carefully pour in the batter. It’s best not to open the oven door while it bakes: the sudden drop in temperature can make the pancake collapse.
The leek is gently braised separately so it turns tender and mild without becoming browned or stringy. Slice it into thin rings and rinse them well; grit often hides between the layers. Aged cheese brings a bold, salty flavor that goes well with the leek’s sweetness. Grate the cheese yourself if you can, so it falls loosely over the warm topping. A teaspoon of mustard and a little lemon juice add just enough sharpness and acidity to balance everything out. Use wholegrain mustard for a little more bite, or Dijon mustard for a smooth, tangy flavor.
The pancake naturally sinks a little after baking; that’s part of the dish. Spoon the leek and cheese over it right away so the cheese softens in the residual heat. Serve immediately, while the edge is still crisp, perhaps with a simple green salad or some radishes for extra freshness. For a heartier lunch, you can serve a fried egg alongside, but the Dutch baby is already rich and filling on its own. Leftovers won’t be as crisp; cover and refrigerate them, then heat them through in a low oven. The edge won’t be quite the same as when it’s fresh from the pan.