ABOUT THIS RECIPEA tender base with browned edges
This breakfast rice is a modern, savory way to serve rice for breakfast, not an attempt to recreate a specific traditional rice porridge. Cooking short-grain rice in plenty of broth gives it a soft, cohesive porridge-like texture. The grains should still be recognizable: stir regularly, but not constantly, so they don’t all break apart. Use mild vegetable or chicken broth; very salty broth makes it difficult to get the soy sauce seasoning right.
The mushrooms provide a second, very different texture. Slice or quarter them and cook them in a large, hot skillet, preferably in a single layer. If the pan is too crowded, they release liquid and are more likely to steam than brown. Wait until the undersides are nicely browned before turning them. Cremini mushrooms are easy to find, but shiitake or oyster mushrooms work too; cut larger ones into bite-size pieces. The mushrooms are a substantial part of this breakfast, not just a garnish.
Soy sauce adds saltiness and savoriness to the rice, while a small amount of sesame oil mainly contributes aroma. Stir both in near the end, so the sesame aroma doesn’t cook for long. Spinach only needs a short time to cook: fold the leaves into the hot rice until they have just wilted. Fresh spinach grown in the Netherlands is available mainly in spring and fall, but frozen leaf spinach works too. Thaw it first and squeeze out excess moisture; otherwise, the porridge will be thinner.
A soft-boiled egg makes the bowl more filling and adds a creamy yolk that mixes with the rice. Boil the egg separately and cool it briefly after cooking to make it easier to peel. Green onion adds a fresh, crisp bite; chili oil brings heat. Use a little if you want a mild start to the day, or put extra on the table. If you don’t have chili oil, you can serve the dish without it; don’t add extra sesame oil as a substitute, since it won’t make the dish spicy.
Serve the rice as soon as it’s ready: it will continue to thicken as it sits. If needed, stir in another splash of hot broth or water to loosen it again. For a make-ahead breakfast, store the rice porridge and mushrooms separately in sealed containers in the refrigerator, and reheat them thoroughly before serving. Cool cooked rice promptly and don’t leave it at room temperature for an extended period. Ideally, prepare the egg and fresh green onion just before eating.