Sardine, fennel and pickled shallot tartine

Tangy, anise-scented and hearty toast

This tartine is all about three distinctive flavors: rich, briny sardines, the fresh anise note of raw fennel and the sharp tang of pickled shallot. Lemon brings them together without overpowering the fish. Parsley adds a green, lightly peppery flavor, while black pepper gives the dressing a little warmth. With so few ingredients, it’s important that each one stands out and that the bread doesn’t go soggy.

Here, the shallot is quickly pickled in vinegar with water, salt and a little sugar. Because the slices are so thin, a short wait is enough to mellow their raw sharpness while keeping them firm. Use white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar; both are mild enough for the sardines. Red wine vinegar works too, but gives the shallot a stronger color and flavor. Slice the shallot as thinly as possible with a sharp knife, and drain the slices well after soaking, or the vinegar will run over the toast.

The fennel stays raw, giving a crisp contrast to the soft fish. Shave it with a mandoline or cut it into paper-thin slices with a knife. Half a small bulb is usually enough for two tartines; you can save the rest for a salad or another meal. Fennel is easiest to find in the Netherlands during the warmer months, but is generally available year-round. Choose a firm bulb without dried-out cut ends. A few drops of lemon keep the dressing from tasting heavy and let the fennel’s delicate anise flavor shine through.

Toast the country bread until the outside is golden brown and crisp, while the inside still has a little chew. That firm surface holds the toppings better than soft bread. A toaster works well; you can also use a hot grill, but keep an eye on the slices. Canned sardines vary in saltiness and in the amount of oil they’re packed in. Drain them and taste before adding extra salt. Sardines in olive oil work well here; sardines in water are fine too, but you may want to add a little extra olive oil to the dressing.

Top the toast just before eating so the base stays crisp. Serve the tartines for lunch with a simple green salad or a bowl of soup. If you have shallot left over, keep it covered in the refrigerator and use it within a few days. For a different texture, you can swap the fennel for thin slices of celery; the flavor will be less anise-like, but still fresh and crisp.