ABOUT THIS RECIPESteam in a paper jacket
Al cartoccio means cooking in a sealed parcel, so the ingredients cook in their own steam. The technique is used in Italy for a variety of dishes; the exact contents vary by recipe and region. Here, the combination is deliberately simple: salmon, lemon, garlic, parsley and olive oil. Inside the sealed parchment, the aromas mingle without the fish needing to be turned in a pan.
Lemon adds freshness and cuts through salmon’s richness. A few thin slices release their aroma as the fish cooks, while a little juice gives it a bright, slightly tart flavor. Garlic adds depth, but doesn’t need to overpower the other ingredients: slice the clove thinly so its flavor spreads evenly. Parsley keeps everything fresh and herby. Flat-leaf parsley is easy to chop finely, but curly parsley works too.
The sealed parcel is more than a neat presentation. The parchment traps moisture and aroma around the fish, helping the salmon cook evenly and making it less likely to dry out than if it were left uncovered in the oven for a long time. A well-folded parcel lets very little steam escape. Use parchment paper suitable for the oven temperature and place the parcels on a baking sheet so you can move them safely. The exact cooking time depends on the thickness of the fillets; check the thickest part and cook the fish to 63 °C, or until it is opaque and flakes apart easily.
A conventional oven is fine; a fan oven may cook the fish a little faster, so check it earlier. No fresh parsley on hand? Use chives for a milder onion note, or leave out the herb and let the lemon and garlic provide the flavor. Serve the salmon with boiled potatoes or a green vegetable, such as green beans or broccoli. Spoon the liquid from the parcel over the fish too: it contains lemon, olive oil and the juices released during cooking. Open the parcels carefully, as the hot steam escapes all at once.