ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Hearty Bean with Fresh Counterpoints
White lupini beans make this salad filling without letting the vegetables fade into the background. They have a firm, slightly nutty bite and soak up dressing well. Use beans from a jar or vacuum pack that are sold ready to eat; lupini beans must be processed correctly for this. Rinse and drain them so the salty liquid from the pack doesn’t overpower the fresh dressing. Some lupini beans have a firm skin. You can leave it on or remove it if you prefer a softer texture.
Fennel and radishes each bring a different kind of crunch. Fennel sliced paper-thin is juicy and lightly aniseed-flavoured, while radishes add a sharper, peppery note. A mandoline makes for even slices, but a sharp knife works too; just cut them as thinly as is practical. The salad is a good fit for the transition from spring to summer, when fennel and radishes are often widely available, but it isn’t tied to any particular season. Choose fennel bulbs that feel firm and radishes with smooth skins.
Lemon brings two kinds of freshness: the juice brightens the oil-based dressing, while small pieces of flesh add a juicy, tart bite as you eat. Lightly crushing the fennel seeds releases their aroma and helps it spread through the dressing. Use a mortar and pestle or the flat side of a knife; there’s no need to grind them finely. Dry the capers before they go into the hot oil. This helps prevent the oil from splattering and lets them crisp up. Remove them from the pan as soon as they open up and drain them so they keep their crispy edges.
Can’t find lupini beans? Large white beans are a handy alternative, although they’re usually softer and less firm. Preferably use capers packed in salt or brine and rinse them; then dry them well. A little extra lemon juice can freshen the dressing if the beans or capers taste salty. You can replace the parsley with finely chopped dill, which goes well with fennel. Keep the rest of the salad simple: sourdough bread is all you need to mop up the dressing. Serve the salad shortly after mixing for maximum crunch; store leftovers covered in the fridge and keep the bread separate.