ABOUT THIS RECIPESalt, heat and a fresh counterpoint
Shioyaki broadly means fish prepared with salt and grilled. In sake no shioyaki, the salmon remains the star ingredient: no marinade or glaze, just salt to sharpen the flavor and a grill to color the outside. Here, the name sake refers to salmon; sake rice wine is not part of this recipe. Salmon fillets with the skin on are handy because the skin protects the fish while it grills and can become crisp itself.
Salting the fish beforehand does more than season it. As the fillets rest, moisture appears on the surface. Carefully pat it away before putting the fish under the broiler: a drier surface browns better and steams less. Keep the resting time to about 15 minutes so the salmon does not lose too much moisture. The broiler should be very hot; direct radiant heat colors the top while keeping the center juicy. Thicker fillets will naturally need a little longer than thinner ones.
Grated daikon adds a juicy, slightly peppery freshness alongside the rich fish. Grate the daikon just before serving and gently press out only some of the excess moisture, so it stays fresh rather than dry. Daikon is usually available at Asian grocery stores and increasingly at greengrocers. No daikon available? Use finely grated radish instead, for a slightly sharper result. Lemon is a handy fresh counterpoint; yuzu works too, if you can find it.
Serve the salmon with short-grain Japanese rice, which turns soft and slightly sticky, or with regular white rice if that works better. Briefly rinse short-grain rice until the water is less cloudy, and follow the package directions for cooking if needed; the amount of water required varies by rice. Keep the side dishes simple so the salty, grilled fish stays center stage. A bowl of miso soup or some pickled vegetables goes well with it, but isn’t necessary for a complete meal.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, within two hours of cooking and eat them within two days. Reheat the salmon gently, for example covered in a low-temperature oven, until it is piping hot throughout; grilling it again can dry out the fish. Rice should also be cooled quickly and kept refrigerated. Reheat it once until it is steaming hot all the way through. Store the grated daikon separately and, ideally, grate only as much as you’ll use right away.