SIDE DISH · NOORS KITCHENSake no kasuzuke: salmon with sakekasu and miso
In this Japanese preparation, sakekasu, miso and mirin give salmon a gentle, savory depth. After marinating overnight, briefly grill the fish so the edges caramelize while the center stays juicy. Serve as a modest side dish with rice and vegetables.
ABOUT THIS RECIPEWhat the rice leaves behind
Kasuzuke is a Japanese way of marinating with sakekasu: the rice lees left over from making sake. Sakekasu is neither sake nor ordinary rice paste. It has a gentle fermented aroma and a mild flavor that can be a little fruity, savory and rounded all at once. In this preparation, it’s mixed with miso and mirin. The miso adds salty umami, while the mirin brings a touch of sweetness. Together, they give salmon more depth without hiding the flavor of the fish.
Sakekasu is sometimes firm and crumbly, and sometimes already soft like a paste. A little mirin and water make it easier to spread around the fish; a few lumps are fine. White miso keeps the marinade mild, but yellow miso works too, with a slightly more pronounced flavor. Dark miso is saltier and more robust, so use less of it. If sakekasu isn’t available, you can marinate the salmon with miso, mirin and a splash of sake. That makes tasty fish, but it isn’t kasuzuke and lacks sakekasu’s characteristic depth.
The resting time in the refrigerator is important: it gives the marinade time to impart its flavor. Keep the fish chilled and marinate it for about eight to twenty-four hours. A longer time makes the flavor more pronounced, but isn’t necessary for these portions. Wipe most of the mixture off the salmon before grilling. The rice components and sugars in the paste darken quickly; a thin coating helps the edges brown. Keep an eye on it, because grill settings vary and caramelization can quickly turn to burning.
Serve a small portion alongside steamed rice and a green vegetable, such as briefly blanched green beans or bok choy. These simple accompaniments let the salmon’s flavor take center stage. A refreshing cucumber dish also goes well with it, as long as it isn’t heavily seasoned. Don’t cut into the fish right after grilling: letting it rest briefly helps keep the juices in. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated within two hours of cooking, then eaten within a day; reheat them gently so the salmon doesn’t dry out unnecessarily.