ABOUT THIS RECIPERomesco, with the pepper in the spotlight
Romesco is associated with Catalonia and comes in many variations. This version puts fresh red peppers, tomato and almond centre stage. They make the sauce smooth and rich, while the sherry vinegar keeps it fresh enough to serve with bread or raw vegetables. The roasted pepper adds a sweet, lightly smoky flavour; almond brings a nutty bite. This is a contemporary variation, not an attempt to define a single fixed, original recipe.
Ripe peppers and tomatoes are at their best in the Netherlands in summer: they have more flavour then and roast up beautifully sweet. Roasting them in a hot oven darkens the skins and concentrates the moisture in the tomatoes. Leave the vegetables covered for a little while after roasting; this makes the pepper skins easier to remove. A few dark spots are welcome, but remove any burnt skin so it doesn’t taste bitter. The garlic roasts in its skin and becomes soft and mild.
Blend the sauce briefly and in small batches. A stick blender or food processor will both work, as long as you stop before the romesco becomes smooth: small pieces of almond and pepper add more texture and keep the sauce thick. If it’s too thick, add a spoonful of water or a little extra olive oil; if it tastes too rich, stir in a little more vinegar at a time. Sherry vinegar brings a rounded, woody acidity. Red wine vinegar is a useful substitute, though it makes the sauce taste a little sharper. You can replace some of the almonds with hazelnuts, but this noticeably changes the nutty flavour.
Grilled bread is ideal for scooping up the romesco; raw celery makes a fresh, crisp counterpoint. You can also serve the dip with other sturdy raw vegetables or alongside grilled vegetables. If you make the sauce ahead, store it in a sealed container in the fridge and use it within three days. Don’t leave it at room temperature for an extended period. Stir before serving and taste again: cold sauce can taste a little less pronounced, so a small splash of vinegar or pinch of salt may be welcome.