ABOUT THIS RECIPESweet, salty and a little spicy
Sweet potato has a mild, sweet flavour of its own. Roasting thick slices in a hot oven deepens that sweetness: the cut sides colour and caramelise while the centre stays soft. Cut the slices about two centimetres thick so they don’t dry out before they colour. Arrange them with space between them on the baking sheet; if they’re crowded together, they’ll steam rather than roast. A thin coating of olive oil helps the outside brown evenly.
The whipped feta brings saltiness and freshness to balance the sweet potato. Feta blended with a spoonful of yoghurt in a food processor or with a hand blender becomes smooth and light enough to spread over the slices. A little lemon juice makes the cheese less rich and keeps the flavour bright. The saltiness of feta varies by brand, so taste the cream before adding any more salt. If the feta is very firm, add a small splash of extra yoghurt; don’t use a large amount, or the topping will become thin.
Honey with chilli flakes adds warmth and a little stickiness, rather than making a distinctly hot sauce. Warm the honey briefly and gently, just until it becomes runny, then stir in the chilli. Don’t let it boil: that makes the honey unnecessarily hot and can overpower the flavour. Start with a small amount of chilli if you want a mild topping; you can add extra flakes at the table. Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry frying pan. Shake the pan regularly and take them out as soon as they smell fragrant and begin to colour here and there, as they burn quickly.
Serve the slices on a platter with the feta underneath or in separate dollops on top, so both textures remain visible. This starter works well before a meal of legumes, roasted vegetables or grilled fish; keep the portions modest in that case. For a plant-based version, you can replace the feta and yoghurt with a firm plant-based white cheese and unsweetened plant-based yoghurt, though their saltiness varies by product. You can roast the sweet potato ahead and keep it chilled; reheat the slices covered in an oven at 180 °C until piping hot throughout. Add the feta, honey and seeds just before serving so the seeds stay crisp.