ABOUT THIS RECIPETangy Glaze, Tender Wedges
Sweet potatoes turn soft in the oven and develop roasted edges. Cut the potatoes into wedges of roughly equal thickness so they cook at the same time. A thin coating of oil helps them roast; leave some space between the wedges on the baking sheet, otherwise they’ll steam rather than brown. You can leave the skin on: scrub the potatoes well and remove only any damaged spots.
Tamarind paste brings a distinctly tangy, fruity note that pairs well with the potato’s natural sweetness. Honey rounds out the sharpness and helps the glaze turn slightly sticky. Since honey can darken quickly in a hot oven, brush it onto the wedges only in the final minutes. First mix the paste with water to make a spreadable glaze; add more water if your tamarind paste is very thick. Adjust the amount of chili to suit your preferred level of heat.
Tamarind paste varies in tartness and concentration from brand to brand. Taste the mixture before brushing it onto the potatoes: it should be distinctly tangy, but not so sharp that the honey gets lost. If you don’t have tamarind, use a little lime juice instead, though the flavor will be fresher and less complex. Gradually stir the juice into the honey and water. Peanut butter is not an equivalent substitute for the chopped peanuts: it’s the loose, roasted pieces that give this dish its dry crunch.
Briefly toast the peanuts in a dry frying pan if they aren’t already roasted; keep an eye on them, as small nuts brown quickly. Chop them roughly so you have both larger pieces and crumbs. Sprinkle them over the potatoes just before serving, or they’ll lose their crunch in the moist glaze. Serve the dish warm or at room temperature, with lime wedges on the side.
The sweet-and-sour wedges go well with rice, beans or pan-fried fish, and can also be part of a meal with several vegetable dishes. Ideally, serve them as soon as they’re ready. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them thoroughly in an oven or microwave; add the peanuts only afterward, along with a fresh squeeze of lime.