Roasted romanesco gets a fresh, briny counterpoint from capers, parsley and lemon. Golden breadcrumbs add just the crisp contrast the tender florets need.
Romanesco has firm florets and a mild, slightly nutty flavour. In the oven, the outer edges turn darker and more intensely flavoured while the centre stays tender. Cut the cabbage into wedges that remain joined at the stem: this gives the cut sides good contact with the baking sheet and makes the vegetable easier to turn than loose florets. Romanesco is often available in the Netherlands in autumn and winter. Choose one with firm, bright green florets and no limp or discoloured spots.
The caper salsa provides a tangy, salty contrast. Capers vary quite a bit in saltiness; give them a quick rinse if they taste very salty, and taste the salsa before adding extra salt. Flat-leaf parsley is best, as it stays fresh and green alongside the lemon. Finely grated lemon zest adds fragrance, while the juice loosens the oil and makes it taste fresher. No fresh lemon on hand? A small splash of mild white wine vinegar can replace the juice, but leave out the zest and add the vinegar a little at a time.
Pangrattato is toasted breadcrumbs that add a crisp layer to a dish. Coarse, homemade crumbs have more bite than very fine breadcrumbs; stale bread is handy for this, but fresh bread works too if you let it dry briefly first. Toast the crumbs gently in olive oil so they turn golden brown without burning the garlic. Sprinkle them over the cabbage just before serving. If they come into contact with the salsa or vegetables earlier, they absorb moisture and lose their crispness.
Serve the romanesco as a generous side dish with pan-fried white beans, lentils or a simple pasta. With some bread on the side, it can also make a light, vegetable-forward meal. The salsa and crumbs also work well with roasted cauliflower or broccoli; those vegetables may need a few minutes more or less in the oven, depending on the size of the wedges. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within two days. Reheat the vegetable gently in the oven; keep the salsa and pangrattato separate and add them afterwards.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Line a baking sheet with baking paper.
Cut the romanesco through the stem into 4–6 wedges. Put them on the baking sheet, toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the salt and some black pepper, and place them cut-side down.
Roast the romanesco for 25–30 minutes, until the cut sides are browned and a knife slips easily into the stem. Carefully turn the wedges halfway through.
Meanwhile, mix the capers, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice and 3 tablespoons olive oil in a small bowl. Season with black pepper and taste to see if it needs any more salt.
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Toast the breadcrumbs for 4–6 minutes, tossing regularly, until golden brown and crisp. Stir in the garlic for the last minute, then remove the pan from the heat.
Arrange the roasted romanesco on a platter. Spoon the caper salsa over it and scatter the crisp breadcrumbs on top just before serving.
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