ABOUT THIS RECIPEGolden Edges, Fresh Butter
This dish is all about the contrast between deeply roasted mushrooms and a fresh, savory finish. Oyster mushrooms turn lightly crisp at the edges and stay tender in the middle; cremini mushrooms add a firmer, juicy bite. White miso brings saltiness and umami, while lemon zest and juice keep the butter from tasting too rich. Parsley adds a fresh, green note, and sesame seeds bring little toasted, crunchy accents.
A high oven temperature matters more here than a long cooking time. Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture: in a lukewarm oven or on an overcrowded baking sheet, they release it slowly and are more likely to steam than brown. So spread them out over two baking sheets and preheat the oven thoroughly. Pat wet mushrooms dry rather than rinsing them under the tap for a long time. You can tear the oyster mushrooms into strips by hand; cut the cremini mushrooms into equal-sized wedges so they cook at roughly the same rate.
White miso is mild and slightly sweet compared with darker varieties, which makes it a good match for lemon and butter. Miso does vary in saltiness, though, so don’t add extra salt to the butter at first, and taste before finishing the mushrooms. Don’t have white miso? A smaller amount of yellow miso works too; darker miso is more intense, so use a lighter hand. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet until fragrant. Keep an eye on them, as they brown quickly.
The mushrooms are delicious as a side with rice, fried tofu, or a simple omelet. Toss them with the butter just before serving, so it melts in the heat and coats the mushrooms. Serve right away: that’s when the roasted edges are most distinct and the sesame seeds stay crunchy. Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container within two hours and use within three days; reheat gently in a skillet. You can add the parsley and sesame seeds after reheating, if you like.