Roasted in the oven, grapes turn juicy and slightly syrupy; whipped ricotta and crisp sourdough toast keep the dish fresh and savory. A simple starter to share.
This starter is all about the contrast between fruit that’s just turned warm and soft, cool creamy cheese, and toast with a satisfying bite. Grapes contain enough moisture and natural sugars to turn juicy quickly in a hot oven. Some of the skins may split; the juice then combines with olive oil, thyme, and black pepper to form a thin, glossy coating. Don’t roast the grapes for so long that they collapse completely: whole grapes with a few light cracks add more texture to the plate.
In the Netherlands, grapes are especially plentiful in late summer and autumn, but table grapes are usually available in shops year-round. Choose firm, ripe grapes without shriveled spots. Both red and green grapes work well. Red grapes add a bold color and often a deeper fruity flavor; green grapes can taste fresher and more tart. Small bunches can go straight onto the baking sheet, but remove the grapes from the stems if you want to divide them more evenly among four servings.
Ricotta is naturally soft and slightly grainy. A quick whip with olive oil makes it lighter and easier to spread; a little lemon zest adds freshness without overpowering the flavor of the grapes. Use a whisk or a small food processor, and stop as soon as the ricotta is smoother and lighter. If the ricotta is very firm, stir in a teaspoon of water. Labneh can be used as an alternative, but it’s more sour and denser; mascarpone is richer and less fresh-tasting, so it’s best to mix it with a little yogurt.
Sourdough bread is sturdy enough to hold the ricotta and warm grape juices. Don’t cut it too thick, so the middle gets crisp before the edges dry out. A mildly flavored sourdough lets the fruit take center stage; a very sour or strongly flavored loaf can change the balance. No sourdough on hand? A hearty farmhouse loaf or country bread is a practical substitute. Toast the bread separately from the grapes, since the grapes release moisture.
Serve the dish right away, while the grapes are still warm and the toast is crisp. Spread the ricotta on a platter or small plates and spoon the grapes and their cooking juices over the top. It works as a starter for four, or as part of a larger spread with, for example, olives and raw vegetables. Store any leftover grapes and ricotta covered in the refrigerator and serve them cold later; toasted bread is best fresh and can be briefly toasted again separately.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Toss the grapes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, the thyme, black pepper, and half the salt. Spread them out on the baking sheet and roast for 12–15 minutes, until some of the grapes split and the juices look glossy.
Meanwhile, whisk the ricotta with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the lemon zest, and the remaining salt until it’s lighter and easy to spread.
Toast the sourdough bread in a toaster or in the oven until golden brown and crisp.
Spread the whipped ricotta on a platter or four plates. Spoon the warm grapes and their cooking juices over the top and serve right away with the toast.
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