Celeriac turns tender inside and develops golden-brown edges in the oven. A fresh salsa with capers, raisins, parsley and lemon balances salty, sweet and sour flavors.
Celeriac has a robust, earthy flavor that becomes milder and a little sweeter when roasted long enough. The vegetable is widely available in autumn and winter, but is generally easy to find at other times of year too. Choose one that feels heavy for its size and is firm, without any soft spots. Trim away the rough skin generously; beneath it is firm flesh that holds up well to high oven temperatures.
Cut the celeriac into wedges about two centimeters thick. This gives the outsides time to brown before the center dries out. Leave space between the wedges on the baking sheet: if they’re crowded, they release moisture and steam instead of roasting. The exact cooking time depends on their thickness and your oven. Pierce the thickest part with a knife; it should go in without much resistance. Dark edges are desirable, but take the vegetable out of the oven before the thin tips burn.
The salsa adds contrast without overpowering the celeriac. Capers bring saltiness and a sharp, slightly sour flavor; raisins add gentle sweetness. Soaking the raisins briefly makes them juicy and less chewy. Lemon zest adds aromatic freshness, while a little lemon juice further sharpens the flavors. Rinse the capers if they’re very salty, and taste before adding extra salt to the vegetable. Aim for a tangy flavor with character rather than lots of lemon juice: the salsa should glisten, not turn watery.
No raisins on hand? Finely chopped dried apricots work too, though they’re often sweeter and firmer. Small capers are easy to stir into the salsa whole; roughly chop larger ones. You can replace the parsley with finely chopped celery leaves for a pronounced green flavor. Keep the basic combination of something salty, something fruity and lemon, so the roasted vegetable has enough contrast.
Serve the celeriac warm as a side dish with roasted fish or alongside grains such as pearl barley or farro. It also works well on a platter with other roasted vegetables. Spoon the salsa over just before serving, so the wedges keep their roasted edges. Refrigerate any leftovers, covered, within two hours and use within three days. Reheat the celeriac thoroughly in the oven; if possible, store the salsa separately and add it after reheating.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Peel the celeriac generously and cut it into wedges about 2 cm thick. Toss the wedges with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the salt and some black pepper. Spread them out in a single layer on the baking sheet.
Roast the celeriac for 40–50 minutes. Turn the wedges halfway through. They’re ready when the edges are golden brown and a knife slides easily into the thickest part.
Meanwhile, put the raisins in a small bowl and pour hot water over them. Leave to soak for 10 minutes, then drain well.
Mix the raisins with the capers, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Taste and add black pepper as desired.
Arrange the roasted celeriac on a platter and spoon the salsa over it just before serving.
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