ABOUT THIS RECIPEFrom roasted edges to a creamy base
Broccoli takes center stage in this dish: cut the stem into sturdy florets so the outside can brown while the inside stays tender with a little bite. A hot oven and plenty of space on the baking sheet are important. If the florets are too close together, they release moisture and steam rather than roast. Use two baking sheets if needed and switch their positions halfway through. The stem doesn’t need to go to waste: peel off the tough outer layer, cut the tender middle into pieces and roast them too.
The white bean cream makes the dish hearty and gives it a mild, creamy contrast to the broccoli. Cannellini beans are soft and blend smoothly, but other canned white beans work too. Rinse them to remove the liquid from the can. Gently heating the beans with garlic and stock for a few minutes mellows the garlic’s sharpness and makes the mixture easier to purée. Add the stock gradually: the cream should be firm enough to spoon onto a plate, not as thin as soup.
Lemon keeps the bean cream fresh and cuts through the richness of the oil. Zest the lemon before squeezing it; that way, you can use the fragrant outer peel without the bitter white pith. Taste the cream after puréeing and add more lemon juice if the beans taste a little flat. No lemon on hand? A small splash of mild vinegar can provide the needed acidity, but it won’t have the fresh aroma of the zest.
The oil doesn’t need to smoke for the chili oil. Gently warm it with the chili flakes so their flavor infuses the oil, and take the pan off the heat as soon as the flakes become fragrant. Chili flakes vary greatly in heat, so start with a little and add more later if you like. Toast the breadcrumbs separately in a frying pan so they stay crispy and develop a nutty flavor. Panko gives you larger, airy crumbs, while fine breadcrumbs make a more even coating.
Serve the broccoli straight away on the bean cream, adding the crumbs at the very last moment. Extra lemon at the table makes the dish even fresher. It’s hearty enough as a vegetable-packed main course, perhaps with bread to mop up the cream. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat within two days; heat the broccoli and bean cream through well, separately. Store the breadcrumbs separately and add them just before eating, or they’ll lose their crunch.