ABOUT THIS RECIPEPolenta as a soft counterpoint
This dish is Italian-inspired, but it isn’t a classic regional preparation. Polenta, made from cornmeal, makes a mellow base for broccoli that develops dark, roasted edges in a hot oven. That robust vegetable flavour needs something creamy to balance it; polenta does that without pushing the broccoli into the background. Lemon zest stirred into the polenta and a little lemon juice over the vegetables keep everything fresh. The chili oil brings warmth and a crispy accent.
For distinctly roasted broccoli, it’s important to leave space on the baking sheet. Divide the florets into generous, roughly equal-sized pieces and arrange them with a little space between each; an overcrowded tray traps steam, so the broccoli softens rather than browns. Cut the peeled stem into bite-sized pieces too, since it’s edible and cooks nicely alongside the florets. The oven should be hot, and there’s no need to turn the broccoli constantly: let the flat sides make contact with the tray to develop colour. Broccoli is available year-round; in the cooler months, its robust, savoury flavour pairs especially well with a warm base.
Make the chili oil by gently frying thin slices of garlic in olive oil until golden. Keep the heat low: garlic colours quickly and tastes bitter if it gets too dark. Pour the hot oil over the chili flakes in a heatproof bowl; this lets the chili infuse the oil while the garlic stays crispy. Use mild chili flakes for a gentler heat, or add a little more if you like things spicy. Don’t let the oil smoke, and taste carefully before adding extra chili.
Gradually stir the polenta into boiling water and keep stirring regularly, especially along the bottom of the pan, so no lumps form and nothing catches. Fine polenta softens in about 20 to 25 minutes; if you’re using instant polenta, follow the package instructions and allow for a shorter cooking time. A knob of butter makes the polenta silkier, while Parmesan adds a savoury flavour. If you’d rather not use cheese, you can add a spoonful of yoghurt when serving. Serve straight away, as polenta thickens as it sits; a splash of hot water will loosen it again. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat over low heat, stirring, with a little water.