ABOUT THIS RECIPEEarthy, fresh and finished with a crunch
Beetroot has a rich, earthy sweetness of its own. Orange pairs beautifully with it, while lemon juice keeps the dish from becoming too heavy or sweet. Yogurt offers a cool, creamy contrast; dill adds a fresh, lightly anise-like note, and pistachio brings some bite. The combination has a contemporary Middle Eastern-inspired flavor, without claiming to be a traditional regional dish. Serve the components clearly alongside one another: that way, the yogurt stays fresh and each bite has a different balance of tart, creamy and crunchy.
In the Netherlands, red beets are plentiful in late summer and autumn, but as a storage vegetable they’re easy to find at other times of year, too. Choose firm beets of roughly the same size so they cook at about the same time. Small beets cook faster; larger ones may take longer. Leave the skin on while roasting to protect the flesh from drying out. Roasting them in foil helps them cook evenly and turn tender without needing to peel them first. After roasting, a thin knife should slide into the center without much resistance.
Let the beets cool for a little while after roasting before peeling them; the skins will come off more easily, and you can handle them without burning your fingers. Cut them into wedges rather than tiny cubes: the cut surfaces absorb the dressing while the pieces retain their firm, tender texture. Toss the citrus and oil with the beets just before serving. This gives the dressing a chance to coat them without leaving the vegetable to marinate for too long, which can affect the color and flavor of the rest of the dish.
For a milder flavor, use only orange, or replace some of the lemon juice with extra orange juice. No dill on hand? Flat-leaf parsley gives a more herbaceous, less anise-like result. Walnuts can replace the pistachios, though they’re a little firmer and less sweet. Greek yogurt works well for a thicker, fresher base; stir in a small splash of water if it’s difficult to spread. Plant-based yogurt works, too, as long as it’s plain and unsweetened.
This side dish goes well with grilled chicken or fish, as well as lentils, bulgur or a meal with several vegetable dishes. You can prepare the beets and dressing ahead and keep them covered in the fridge; it’s best to add the yogurt, dill and pistachios just before serving. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the fridge and eat them within two days. Serve them cold or let them come to room temperature briefly; there’s no need to reheat them.