ABOUT THIS RECIPEPepper with a smoky edge
In this dish, red peppers are more than an accent; they’re the base of the sauce. Roasting the peppers at a high heat chars the skin and softens the flesh, bringing out its sweetness. That hint of smokiness gives the pasta more depth than peppers cooked only in a pan. Peppers are available year-round; in summer, Dutch-grown peppers are usually plentiful. Choose firm peppers with shiny skin that feel heavy for their size.
After roasting, covering the peppers and letting them rest for ten minutes helps loosen the skin. Then peel them with your fingers; it’s fine if a few bits of skin remain. It’s best not to rinse them, as that washes away flavor too. Remove the seeds and membranes, then blend the flesh with olive oil, gently cooked garlic, and a little pasta water. The starchy water loosens the purée and helps the sauce cling to the pasta.
Rigatoni works well because its wide tubes and ridges hold the smooth sauce. Cook the pasta until just al dente and save a cup of cooking water before draining. Then toss the rigatoni with the pepper sauce in a roomy pan. If it’s too thick, add more cooking water a splash at a time; the sauce should coat the pasta, not sit in a heavy layer at the bottom. A little lemon juice balances the sweetness of the peppers.
Almonds add a toasted, crunchy finish. Toast the pieces in a dry frying pan and keep an eye on them: once fragrant, they brown quickly. Let them cool briefly before sprinkling them over the pasta with the parsley, so the herbs stay fresh. No almonds on hand? Hazelnuts work too, though they have a more pronounced flavor. You can replace the parsley with finely chopped basil.
Serve the pasta straight away, while the sauce is still silky and the almonds are crunchy. A simple green salad or thinly sliced fennel with lemon makes a good accompaniment without overpowering the pepper flavor. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat thoroughly in a pan with a splash of water within two days. The sauce will loosen up again; sprinkle the almonds over just before serving.