Dried pinto beans are cooked until tender, then fried again with onion until creamy with a little bite. Queso fresco and a squeeze of lime add freshness and saltiness.
Frijoles refritos are a well-known Mexican bean dish. The name is sometimes understood to mean ‘fried twice’, but refritos here refers to frying them again: first you cook the beans until tender, then fry them with onion and fat in a pan. The result isn’t a smooth purée, but a creamy mixture with some recognizable pieces of bean. Pinto beans are a common choice; using other types of beans changes the flavor and texture a little.
Dried beans take time, but require little active attention. Soaking them overnight shortens the cooking time and helps them cook evenly. Then simmer them gently in fresh water until you can crush them between your fingers with light pressure. How long this takes depends on how old the beans are; start checking after about an hour. Add hot water as needed so they stay submerged while cooking. Save the cooking liquid: a splash of it makes the beans tender in the frying pan without needing to add extra fat.
Lard gives the dish a rich, traditional flavor and helps the onion and beans fry well. Neutral oil works too and is a practical choice if you don’t use lard. Slowly fry the onion until translucent before adding the beans. Mash them with a sturdy fork, potato masher, or wooden spoon, adding the cooking liquid a little at a time. Don’t turn the heat up too high: the beans can lightly brown on the bottom, but shouldn’t dry out. Stop mashing as soon as the purée is creamy and still has some texture.
Queso fresco is a mild, fresh cheese that you crumble over the warm beans. If you can’t find it, another mild, fresh, crumbly cheese is a suitable substitute; feta is saltier and will give a different result. Lime provides a fresh contrast to the soft beans and the fat. Serve the wedges on the side so everyone can decide how much acidity to add.
These beans go well alongside tortillas, grilled meat, or roasted vegetables, and they’re also delicious as a taco filling. If making them ahead, cool them promptly and refrigerate covered within two hours; use within three to four days. Reheat them thoroughly in a pan, stirring in a little water if they have become firm as they cooled. Add the queso fresco and lime just before serving.
Rinse the pinto beans and put them in a large bowl. Add plenty of cold water and soak for 8–12 hours. Drain and rinse again.
Put the beans in a pot and add fresh water until they’re covered by about 5 cm. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer gently uncovered until completely tender, usually 60–90 minutes. Skim any foam from the surface and add hot water if the beans are no longer submerged.
Drain the beans over a bowl and save the cooking liquid. Heat the lard or oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry the onion for 4–5 minutes until soft and translucent.
Add the beans and salt. Mash them with a potato masher or sturdy spoon and gradually stir in 100 ml cooking liquid. Fry for 5–8 minutes, stirring regularly and leaving some of the beans partly mashed. Add extra cooking liquid if needed until the purée is creamy but still has some texture.
Spoon the beans into a serving dish. Scatter the queso fresco over the top and serve with the lime wedges.
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