Soft, fragrant quince and glossy syrup are balanced by cool mascarpone and toasted hazelnuts. A simple dessert for when quince is available in autumn and winter.
Quince isn’t fruit to eat raw in wedges: it’s hard and astringent, but gentle, moist heat makes it soft and fragrant. The flesh may turn pink as it cooks, though this varies from one quince to another and depends on the cooking time. Don’t expect every fruit to develop an equally intense colour. Choose firm quinces without soft spots; they’re generally available in autumn and winter. Their floral fragrance pairs well with the warm, slightly anise-like note of star anise.
Poaching the quinces slowly cooks them evenly without making them fall apart. Keep the liquid just below a simmer: large, bubbling bursts can damage the wedges and make it harder to check how tender they are. A wide pan makes it easy to arrange the pieces in a single layer; otherwise, use a suitably smaller pan so they’re mostly submerged. The wedges are ready when the tip of a knife slides in easily. Depending on the fruit, this can take about an hour to an hour and a half.
Lemon peel adds fragrance to the syrup, while a little lemon juice sharpens its sweetness. The sugar is there for more than flavour: together with the poaching liquid, it forms a thin, glossy coating around the fruit as it reduces. After the fruit is cooked, let the liquid reduce gently and take the pan off the heat as soon as the syrup looks lightly thickened; it will thicken a little more as it cools. If you don’t have star anise, leave it out rather than adding several other spices. A piece of lemon peel is enough for a clean, fragrant result.
Mascarpone makes the dessert creamy without overpowering the quince. Serve the wedges lukewarm so the syrup flows nicely over the plate, and add the mascarpone just before serving. Toasted hazelnuts bring a dry, crunchy bite; walnuts work too, but add a slightly more bitter note. You can also serve the fruit with thick Greek yoghurt for a lighter, fresher contrast. A small biscuit or thin slice of cake alongside makes it a more substantial dessert.
Store leftover quince with the syrup in a sealed container in the fridge and use within three days. Warm the fruit gently with a splash of water or syrup; don’t let it boil hard. Serve the mascarpone and hazelnuts separately, adding them to the plate just before serving so the nuts stay crunchy.
Toast the hazelnuts in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat for 4–6 minutes, until golden brown. Shake the pan regularly. Leave to cool, then roughly chop.
Peel the quinces, cut them into quarters and remove the hard cores. Cut each quarter into two wedges. Work quickly; quince discolours after cutting.
Put the water, sugar, lemon peel, lemon juice and star anise in a wide pan. Heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Add the quinces; if needed, add a little water so they’re mostly submerged.
Bring the liquid to just below a simmer. Cover the pan and poach the quinces over low heat for 60–90 minutes, until the tip of a knife slides in easily. Carefully turn the wedges over halfway through.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the tender quinces to a plate. Gently simmer the poaching liquid uncovered for 8–15 minutes, until it reduces to a thin, glossy syrup. Remove the lemon peel and star anise.
Divide the lukewarm quinces among four plates and spoon over some syrup. Serve with a spoonful of mascarpone and the toasted hazelnuts.
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