This Italian pumpkin flan is soft and airy, with Parmesan for savory depth and sage butter for a fragrant, nutty finish. Baked in small ramekins, it makes an elegant starter served warm.
Sformato is an Italian preparation in the form of a savory flan or baked dish; the exact ingredients and shape vary from recipe to recipe. Here, roasted pumpkin takes center stage, with egg and cream for a soft, firm texture. Parmesan adds saltiness and umami, while a little nutmeg complements the pumpkin’s sweetness without overpowering it. Roasting the pumpkin instead of boiling it is important: it lets moisture evaporate and keeps the purée concentrated, so the flan won’t turn watery.
Pumpkin is widely available, especially in fall and winter, but butternut squash is often available year-round. Choose a firm pumpkin with deeply colored flesh; butternut squash is easy to peel and makes a smooth purée. Hokkaido pumpkin works too: you don’t need to peel it, but do remove the seeds and stringy core. Roast the pieces until very soft, then let them steam-dry briefly. If the purée still looks visibly wet, press it through a fine sieve before adding the eggs.
The ramekins cook in a water bath. The water tempers the oven’s direct heat, allowing the eggs to set gently so the center stays tender rather than turning grainy. Use small ovenproof ramekins and fill the baking dish with hot water to about halfway up the sides of the ramekins. The flans are ready when the center feels just set and still has a slight wobble; they will firm up further as they rest. Running a thin knife around the edge helps to turn them out, but you can also serve them in the ramekins.
Sage butter adds a nutty aroma and a lightly crisp touch to the soft flan. Let the butter foam gently and take the pan off the heat as soon as the leaves are crisp and the butter is light golden; this keeps the milk solids from burning. No fresh sage on hand? Use less dried sage and let it infuse briefly in the butter, but don’t expect the same crisp leaves. Pecorino can replace the Parmesan for a more pronounced salty flavor; taste before adding extra salt.
Serve one small sformato per person as a starter, with the sage butter spooned over and, if you like, a simple green salad on the side. It also works alongside roasted vegetables or a light vegetable broth as part of a larger menu. You can bake the flans ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator; reheat them thoroughly within two days in a low-temperature oven, preferably in their ramekins. Make the sage butter just before serving so the leaves keep their texture.
Preheat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Toss the pumpkin with the olive oil and spread it out on a baking sheet. Roast for 30–35 minutes, until the pieces are completely soft. Let them steam-dry for 5 minutes, then purée until smooth.
Reduce the oven temperature to 160 °C (140 °C fan). Grease six ramekins of about 125 ml with the softened butter. Place them in a deep baking dish.
Beat the eggs with the heavy cream, Parmesan, nutmeg, salt and a few turns of black pepper. Stir in the pumpkin purée until smooth, then divide the mixture among the ramekins.
Pour hot water into the baking dish until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until the flans are firm around the edges and still wobble very slightly in the center. Carefully lift the ramekins out of the water bath and let them rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the unsalted butter in a small pan over medium-low heat. Add the sage leaves and let the butter foam until it turns light golden and smells nutty. Take the pan off the heat immediately.
Run a thin knife around the edge of the flans and turn them out onto small plates, or serve them in the ramekins. Spoon the sage butter and leaves over the top and serve warm.
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