ABOUT THIS RECIPECrisp Coating, Tender Center
Eggplant fritters fit right in with a Provençal meal: the vegetable takes center stage, and the finishing touches stay simple. Eggplant is widely used in southern France in warm dishes, but a coating of batter and hot oil make for a very different preparation. Expect a crisp outside and a creamy, tender center. Parsley, garlic and lemon add freshness; they keep the dish lively without overpowering the eggplant’s mild flavor.
Eggplants are widely available in the Netherlands, especially in summer and early fall. Choose ones that feel firm, with smooth, glossy skin and no soft spots. Slices about half a centimeter thick are thin enough to cook through during frying, but sturdy enough to turn with tongs. Excess moisture on the surface can thin the batter, so pat the slices thoroughly dry after cutting. Salting isn’t necessary for young, firm eggplants; with a large or somewhat older one, briefly salting can help draw excess moisture to the surface.
A light batter matters more than a thick coating. Cold sparkling water and baking powder add a little extra lift, while flour gives an even, thin coating. Don’t keep stirring the batter longer than necessary: a few small lumps are fine, and beating it vigorously will only make it less light. Fry in batches to keep the oil at temperature. If the oil is too cool, the batter absorbs fat more quickly; if it’s too hot, it browns before the eggplant is tender. A kitchen thermometer makes it easy to keep the temperature in check.
Serve the fritters right away, while the crust is still crisp. Add the parsley, garlic and lemon zest at the very end; you can squeeze the lemon juice over them at the table so the crust doesn’t go soft. They’re a good match for grilled fish, tomato salad or other summery sides. No sparkling water on hand? Use ice-cold still water; the batter will be a little less airy, but it will still work. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated within two hours, then used within two days. Reheat them on a rack in a 200 °C oven until piping hot throughout; the crust will firm up again, but they’re crispiest fresh.