ABOUT THIS RECIPEEggplant with Smoke and Lemon
Eggplant caviar, or caviar d’aubergine in French, is a smooth or coarsely mashed spread made from cooked eggplant. The name refers to its spreadable texture, not fish roe. There are several versions in southern France; lemon, olive oil, garlic and herbs are natural flavorings, but the proportions and additional ingredients vary from recipe to recipe. This version keeps things simple and lets the eggplant take center stage. Toast is the way to serve it for lunch here, not a separate regional tradition.
Eggplant is widely available, especially in summer and early fall. Choose eggplants that feel firm, with smooth, glossy skin and no soft spots. Roasting them whole gives the flesh time to become completely tender; the skin protects it as it cooks. A hot oven also gives the flesh a deeper, slightly smoky flavor than briefly frying it in cubes. Pierce the skin in several places to let steam escape, and wait until the eggplants have really collapsed.
After roasting, the flesh may release some liquid. Letting it drain for a few minutes helps prevent a watery spread. Then mash it with a fork: this leaves a little texture, while olive oil brings the mixture together. Add the lemon juice gradually and taste as you go; it should brighten the soft, rich eggplant without the acidity taking over. Raw garlic gets stronger as the spread sits, so it’s best to start with one small clove. Parsley adds a fresh, green note; finely chopped chives can be used instead, though they will change the flavor.
Serve the spread on thin slices of sturdy bread, toasted until the edges are crisp. Radishes add a cool bite, and the green salad makes the lunch lighter; a simple red wine vinegar dressing complements the lemon in the spread. It’s also good as part of a spread with olives and other small dishes. If the eggplant is very moist, let the flesh drain longer in a sieve rather than adding extra breadcrumbs. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and use within two days; take only the amount you’re serving out of the refrigerator.