Provençal Aubergine Tian

Slow-baked slices from Provence

A tian is both the name of a shallow baking dish and of dishes baked in one. There are different versions; here, aubergine and tomato are the main ingredients. The slices are arranged close together so they soften as they cook and their flavours mingle. Garlic, thyme and olive oil add fragrance and depth without overpowering the vegetables. The result isn’t a crisp bake, but a juicy dish with a few roasted edges.

Aubergine and tomato are at their best when they’re plentiful in summer and early autumn. Choose aubergines that feel firm and have smooth, shiny skin. Ripe tomatoes add more flavour and moisture; firm ones are easier to slice evenly. Outside the season, you can use good-quality vine tomatoes, but bear in mind that they may be a little less sweet. Very watery tomatoes can make the bottom of the dish wetter, so let the sliced vegetables drain briefly if needed.

Cut the vegetables into slices about half a centimetre thick. Even thickness matters more than perfect circles: this helps the aubergine and tomato cook at roughly the same rate. Arrange them overlapping and fairly snugly, but don’t press them flat. In a baking dish about 25 by 20 centimetres, they’ll stay nicely upright as they bake. Gentle cooking at a moderate oven temperature softens the aubergine without drying out the top too quickly. The dish is ready when a knife slides easily through the aubergine and the top is lightly coloured in a few places.

Fresh thyme goes well with earthy aubergine and sweet tomato. No fresh sprigs to hand? Use about a teaspoon of dried thyme instead. Slice the garlic thinly so its flavour spreads through the dish and the pieces don’t burn. Olive oil helps the vegetables cook and carries the aromas; don’t skimp on it, but don’t pour a large pool into the dish either. Serve the tian with crusty bread to soak up the tomato juices and a simple green salad for freshness. It’s also well suited to a lunch buffet at room temperature.