ABOUT THIS RECIPEVinegar for balance
Poulet au vinaigre is a French preparation in which vinegar is not just a sour seasoning but also forms the base of the sauce. This version is inspired by Lyonnaise cooking: chicken, shallots and wine vinegar are joined by white wine, cream and tomato. The exact proportions and additions can vary from recipe to recipe; here, the tomatoes keep the sauce savory and lightly fruity without overpowering the vinegar.
Chicken thighs work well in this dish because they can handle a gentle braise and stay juicy. Using bone-in, skin-on thighs also adds more flavor to the pan. For even cooking, choose pieces that are about the same size and pat the skin dry before browning. That helps it color well. Use a Dutch oven or other heavy pot that holds the chicken in a single layer; in an overcrowded pan, the skin is more likely to steam than brown.
Wine vinegar gives the sauce a distinct, sharp edge. As it reduces, some of the pungent vinegar aroma evaporates while the flavor becomes more concentrated. White wine rounds things out and helps loosen the browned bits from the pan. Add the cream toward the end: this keeps the sauce mellow and creamy, with enough acidity to keep it from tasting heavy. Taste before serving and only then add a little extra salt or a small splash of water if the sauce is too sharp or intense.
Use white wine vinegar for a gentle, fresh acidity; red wine vinegar works too, but gives a slightly deeper flavor. No white wine on hand? Replace it with extra chicken stock and keep the amount of vinegar the same. Half-and-half can replace the heavy cream, though the sauce will be a little less rich. Ripe tomatoes are handy when they’re flavorful, especially in summer; out of season, small canned tomatoes work well too. Drain them if they are very juicy.
Serve the chicken with mashed potatoes, boiled potatoes or crusty bread, so there’s something to mop up the sauce. A simple green salad on the side adds freshness without competing with the sauce. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within two days. Gently reheat the chicken and sauce in a pan until piping hot throughout; add a splash of water if needed to loosen the sauce again.