Potato Pavé with Mushrooms and Mustard Cream

Layers That Hold Their Shape

Pavé literally means “paving stone” and here refers to the compact, even shape of the potato layer. Thinly sliced potatoes are layered with butter and thyme, then covered and baked until tender. Chilling the layer until firm makes it easy to cut neat portions that hold their shape in the pan. The technique takes little hands-on work, but does require some planning ahead: allow at least four hours for chilling, or make the pavé a day in advance.

Use waxy potatoes, such as Nicola or Charlotte. They hold their shape better than floury potatoes when you cut and fry the layer. A mandoline makes even slices about two millimeters thick; a sharp knife works too, as long as the slices are roughly the same thickness. Peel the potatoes for a smooth, continuous layer. Don’t rinse them after slicing: the starch on the surface helps bind the layers together. Butter between the slices adds flavor and helps the edges brown.

The mushrooms provide an earthy, savory contrast to the buttery potatoes. Fry them in a large, hot pan, working in two batches if needed. If the pan is too crowded, they’ll release moisture and start to steam rather than brown. Chestnut mushrooms are practical and available year-round; replacing some of them with oyster mushrooms gives the dish a softer, stringier bite. The mustard cream keeps the dish balanced: Dijon mustard adds a kick, while lemon juice makes the sauce just fresh enough. Let the stock reduce first, so the cream sauce stays light rather than watery.

Once firm, the pavé can be cut into four generous portions. Fry them gently in a skillet with a thin layer of oil, turning them carefully with a spatula; this gives the outside time to crisp up without the inside falling apart. Serve immediately with the warm mushrooms and sauce, so the crisp edges stay crisp. A simple green salad with a vinaigrette goes well alongside. To prepare ahead, you can keep the baked potato layer covered in the refrigerator for up to two days; cool it promptly and heat the portions all the way through in the pan.