A small, warm starter with silky-smooth potato cream, salty crispy capers and fresh dill. Lemon oil adds just enough acidity to brighten the creamy flavour.
This potato cream is meant to be a small starter, not a heavy bowl of mash. Floury potatoes provide a soft, full-bodied base; warm vegetable stock and olive oil make it spoonable without cream or butter. Add the stock gradually: the amount needed depends on the variety of potato and how dry the potatoes are after cooking. The cream can be smooth, but it should still hold its shape on a spoon.
For an airy texture, how you mash the potatoes matters. Drain them well and leave them to steam dry briefly so excess moisture can evaporate. A potato ricer works best. If you use a masher, work gently and stop as soon as the potatoes are smooth; mixing for too long or too vigorously can make them sticky. Then stir in the warm stock and olive oil. An immersion blender or regular blender is not a good choice for this.
Capers add little salty, sour pops of flavour and a crispy contrast. Rinse them if they are very salty, then pat them thoroughly dry: moisture in the pan can cause splattering and make them less crispy. Fry them in a thin layer of oil over medium heat until they open up and develop crispy edges. Drain them on paper towels. Dill adds fresh, gentle herbal notes; add it just before serving so the leaves stay distinct.
The lemon oil is simple: let lemon zest infuse briefly in olive oil and use just a few drops per serving. This keeps the lemon flavour fresh and prevents the cream from becoming watery. If possible, use an unwaxed lemon and grate only the yellow part of the peel. If you don't have fresh dill, finely chopped chives work too, though the flavour will be milder. A neutral oil can replace the olive oil for frying the capers.
Serve the cream straight away in small warm bowls or deep plates so it doesn't cool too quickly. It goes well before pan-fried fish or roasted vegetables; keep the portions modest if you're serving a main course afterwards. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated within two hours, then used within two days. Reheat them gently in a pan and stir in a splash of stock if needed; the cream thickens as it cools.
Put the potatoes in a pan of cold water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 15–20 minutes, until tender; the tip of a knife should slide in without resistance.
Meanwhile, warm the vegetable stock in a small pan. Stir the lemon zest into 2 tablespoons of olive oil and set aside.
Drain the potatoes well and leave them to steam dry for 1 minute. Press them through a potato ricer into the pan. First stir in 150 ml of warm stock, then 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add more stock if needed until the cream is smooth and spoonable. Season with salt and black pepper.
Pat the capers thoroughly dry. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Fry the capers for 2–3 minutes, until they open up and develop crispy edges. Lift them out of the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
Divide the warm potato cream among four small bowls. Sprinkle the capers and dill over the top and drizzle a little lemon oil over each serving. Serve immediately.
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