Polenta Fries with Lemon-Chili Mayonnaise

From Soft Polenta to Crispy Sticks

Polenta fries start with a firm pan of polenta: cornmeal slowly cooked in water. Once the liquid has been absorbed, the mixture becomes thick and smooth. After it has set, you can cut it into sticks that hold their shape while baking. Coarse or medium-grind cornmeal is best; the grain gives the fries a distinctive, slightly grainy bite. Instant polenta works too, but follow the cooking time and liquid ratio on the package. The final firmness matters more than the type of cornmeal.

Stirring as it cooks keeps the polenta from sticking to the bottom of the pan and helps prevent lumps. A whisk works well when you add the cornmeal in a thin stream; after that, a sturdy wooden spoon is useful because the mixture thickens quickly. Spread the polenta to about two centimeters thick on a parchment-lined tray. Let it set completely before cutting. You can do this well ahead of time: cover the tray and put it in the refrigerator once cooled. Handling the cold polenta carefully and keeping the sticks dry helps them stay neat.

In the oven, the sticks become crisp on the outside, but they do not get exactly the same crust as fries deep-fried in oil. A thin coating of olive oil helps the edges brown; leave enough space between the pieces on the baking sheet, or they will steam rather than brown. Turn them halfway through. Baking time can vary depending on the oven and the thickness, so look for golden edges. If the sticks are still pale, give them a few more minutes.

The dip keeps the dish balanced. Lemon zest gives it a pronounced citrus aroma without thinning the mayonnaise; a little lemon juice adds freshness too. Mild chili flakes add warmth without overpowering the flavor. If you don't have chili flakes, use a small pinch of mild chili powder. Stir the dip shortly before serving and taste it: the amount of salt can vary between mayonnaise brands.

Serve the fries straight from the oven as a side dish with roasted vegetables, a salad, or a meal with beans. The sticks are at their best freshly baked. You can prepare the set polenta ahead of time, so just before eating all you need to do is cut and bake it. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them on a baking sheet in a hot oven; the microwave will soften the outside.