A softly poached egg on a thin, golden-brown rice cake: the yolk becomes the sauce, with fresh lime and rice vinegar and a spoonful of spicy chili oil for contrast.
This starter is all about three distinct textures: a crispy exterior of fried rice, soft egg white and a runny yolk. Use short-grain rice, such as sushi rice, because the cooked grains naturally stick together well. The rice doesn’t need any special seasoning, so the fresh dressing and chili oil remain distinct. Made as four small rice cakes, this is a compact starter. Don’t make them too thick: a thin cake gets more crispy edges and is sturdy enough to hold the egg.
Cold rice is easier to shape than warm, moist rice. With slightly damp hands, press the grains into compact discs and fry them in a thin layer of oil. Let them fry undisturbed for a while before turning them; once a crust has formed, they release more easily and are less likely to break. A non-stick frying pan and a wide, thin spatula make this easier. The rice should be golden brown and crispy, not just warm. If using leftover rice, spread it out to cool quickly after cooking, then cover and refrigerate. Use it within a day and fry the cakes until piping hot all the way through.
Poaching calls for water at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil. This keeps the egg white closer to the yolk and prevents the eggs from being tossed around the pan. A splash of vinegar in the poaching water helps the egg white set more quickly. First crack each egg into a small bowl; this lets you gently slide it into the water. A fresh egg will generally hold its shape better. Briefly drain the poached eggs on paper towels so excess water doesn’t make the crispy rice soggy.
The dressing is deliberately simple: rice vinegar gives it a gentle, direct acidity, while lime juice adds a more fragrant citrus note. Stir them together with a little water and salt, and taste before drizzling the dressing over the dish; chili oil varies in heat and saltiness from brand to brand. Don’t have rice vinegar? Use mild white wine vinegar, with a little less lime juice if you like. For a less spicy version, serve the chili oil on the side. Serve the rice cakes straight after frying and add the eggs at the last moment. A simple green salad works alongside, but keep the portion modest so the egg stays in the spotlight.
Stir together the rice vinegar, lime juice, 1 tsp water and a pinch of salt. Set the dressing aside.
Divide the cold rice into four portions. With slightly damp hands, shape each portion into a compact disc about 7 cm wide and 1 cm thick. Press any loose grains firmly into place.
Heat the neutral oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the rice cakes for 4–5 minutes per side, without moving them in between, until golden brown and crispy on both sides. Transfer to a plate.
In a wide pan, bring a depth of water with the white vinegar to just below boiling point; the water should be at a gentle simmer. Crack an egg into a small bowl and carefully slide it into the water. Poach for 3–4 minutes, until the white is set but the yolk is still soft. Repeat with the remaining eggs, poaching in two batches if needed.
Lift the eggs out of the water with a slotted spoon and briefly drain them on paper towels. Place an egg on each rice cake.
Spoon the dressing and chili oil over the eggs and finish with the spring onion. Serve immediately so the rice stays crispy.
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