ABOUT THIS RECIPEClear broth, fresh finish
Phở bò is a Vietnamese soup in which broth, rice noodles and beef take center stage. It is eaten at different times of day, including for breakfast. In this recipe, beef bones slowly simmer with onion, ginger and spices to make an aromatic broth. Star anise and cinnamon add warmth; coriander seeds and cloves bring extra depth. The result should be fragrant, but not so heavily spiced that the flavor of the beef disappears.
A clear broth starts with cleaning the bones. Briefly boiling them and then rinsing them removes some of the foam and proteins that can make the broth cloudy. Then let the bones simmer gently: a vigorous boil makes for a cloudy, greasy soup more quickly. Meanwhile, roast the onion and ginger until the cut sides are dark. This adds a light smoky flavor and more depth. Briefly toast the spices in a dry pan; take them off the heat as soon as they become fragrant, as burnt spices taste bitter.
Ask your butcher for beef bones suitable for broth, for example a mix of marrow and joint bones. For the meat on top, use a tender cut of beef, such as ribeye or top round steak, well chilled and sliced as thinly as possible. If it is difficult to slice thinly, put the meat in the freezer briefly to firm it up. Fish sauce and a little sugar round out the broth; add them gradually and taste before adding extra salt. Whole star anise and cinnamon are more important here than a large amount of ground spices, which can quickly make the broth cloudy.
Rice noodles vary in thickness and cooking time, so follow the package directions for soaking or cooking them and don’t let them get too soft. They will cook a little more when the hot broth is poured over them. Set out bowls of bean sprouts, cilantro, Thai basil, lime and chili on the table. The herbs add freshness, the lime cuts through the rich broth and the chili brings heat. Store any leftover broth and noodles separately, covered in the refrigerator; cool the broth promptly and reheat it thoroughly later. This keeps the noodles firm and prevents the soup from becoming unnecessarily cloudy.