Fluffy basmati rice with broad beans and plenty of dill, steamed over a golden, crispy bottom. Fried onion, tangy lemon yoghurt and tender beans make it a complete meal.
Rice with broad beans and dill is inspired by baghali polo, a well-known combination in Persian cooking. This is a modern vegetarian meal: the beans and herbs are layered through the rice, with lemon yoghurt served on the side. The flavour is fresh and green, with tender broad beans and a toasted, crispy layer of rice for contrast. Fried onion adds sweetness without overpowering the dill.
The crispy bottom forms by briefly parboiling the rice first, then covering it and letting it finish cooking with very little liquid. This gives the bottom layer time to brown gently while the steam cooks the rice above it. A heavy-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting lid helps prevent burning; wrapping the lid in a clean tea towel absorbs condensation, so less water drips back onto the rice. Keep the heat low once the pan is covered. The crust can vary from pan to pan: don’t check it as it cooks, but carefully check around the edge after the steaming time.
Fresh broad beans are available in spring and early summer, but frozen beans work well here all year round. Frozen beans only need a brief boil to cook through. If the beans are large and have tough skins, peel them after blanching for a more tender bite; this isn’t necessary for young or small beans. Fresh dill gives the clearest aroma. Dried dill is less fresh-tasting and isn’t an equivalent substitute; if you don’t have fresh dill, it’s better to choose a different fresh herb, such as a smaller amount of parsley.
Basmati is a good choice because its long grains stay separate after cooking. Rinsing removes loose starch from the outside, and briefly soaking helps the grains cook more evenly. Don’t cook them until completely soft before steaming: they should still have some firmness so they don’t fall apart afterwards. Don’t stir the rice and beans vigorously after steaming; spoon out portions and break off pieces of the crust as you go, so they stay crispy.
Serve the rice with yoghurt brightened by lemon to cut through its creaminess, plus fried onion for a savoury, lightly sweet note. A simple bowl of cucumber or tomato goes well with it, but isn’t needed to make the meal complete. Refrigerate leftovers covered within two hours and eat within two days. Reheat the rice until piping hot throughout; the crispy bottom will soften.
Rinse the rice in a sieve until the water runs mostly clear. Soak in cold water for 20 minutes, then drain.
Bring a large pan of water with 1 tsp salt to the boil. Cook the broad beans for 2–3 minutes, until just tender. Scoop them out of the water and cook the rice in the same water for 5–6 minutes: the outside should soften, but the grains should still have a firm centre. Drain the rice.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the onions with a pinch of salt for 10–15 minutes, tossing regularly, until soft and golden brown. Remove from the heat.
Mix the yoghurt with 1 tbsp lemon juice, the lemon zest, the pepper and a pinch of salt. Set aside.
In a heavy pan with a tight-fitting lid, heat the remaining 2 tbsp oil with 2 tbsp water. Spoon a third of the rice into the pan. Scatter a third of the broad beans and dill over it. Repeat the layers, finishing with rice. Dot the butter in small pieces over the top.
Lay a clean tea towel over the pan and put the lid on, keeping the edges of the towel safely on top of the lid and away from the flame. Set the pan over medium heat for 5 minutes, then turn the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes. Don’t lift the lid while the rice is steaming.
Remove the pan from the heat and leave it to stand for 5 minutes. Carefully spoon the rice onto a serving platter and break the golden crust into pieces. Serve with the fried onion and lemon yoghurt.
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