Roasted carrots, tahini and lemon come together in a creamy sauce for short pasta. Set aside some of the carrots to keep as soft, sweet pieces, then finish the dish with crisp breadcrumbs, parsley and chili oil.
Carrots become sweeter in the oven, with brown, caramelized spots around the edges. This gives the sauce more depth than raw or simply boiled carrots. Puréeing some of the carrots until smooth while leaving the rest whole gives the pasta both an even sauce and soft, recognizable pieces of vegetable. Regular carrots work well here; young carrots with their tops still attached are fine too, but they often cook faster and usually don’t need peeling if you scrub them well.
Tahini brings a full, slightly earthy flavor and makes the puréed carrots velvety smooth. Lemon juice keeps the combination from feeling heavy, while a little zest adds extra fragrance. Tahini can be thicker or more bitter depending on the brand, so add the lemon juice and cooking water gradually and taste before adding salt. Use an immersion blender or a countertop blender to make a smooth sauce. A whisk alone won’t break down the carrots enough, but it can help loosen the sauce with pasta water afterward.
Pasta water is important: its starch helps the sauce cling to the pasta and makes it glossy, without any extra cream. So finish cooking the pasta only when the carrots are nearly ready, and scoop out a mug of cooking water before draining. Toss the pasta and sauce together in a large pan or bowl while both are warm. Add the water a little at a time; the sauce should coat the pasta smoothly, not sit in a thick layer like purée.
Chili oil adds a pleasant heat that contrasts with the sweet carrots and fresh lemon. Chili peppers vary a lot in heat, so start with a little and serve extra oil on the side if not everyone likes the same level of spice. The breadcrumbs add a dry, crunchy contrast to the soft sauce. Stale bread works well; panko is another option, though it makes a lighter crumb. Parsley keeps the finish fresh. Serve the pasta right away, perhaps with a green salad dressed with something tart. Rigatoni, fusilli or penne hold the sauce well; choose a short shape with ridges or hollows if you have one.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Toss the carrots with 2 tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet and roast for 25–30 minutes, until tender with browned edges here and there.
Meanwhile, heat the neutral oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the chili flakes and warm for 1–2 minutes; don’t let the oil smoke. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan. Fry the breadcrumbs over medium heat for 4–6 minutes, until golden and crisp. Toss regularly and season with a pinch of salt.
Cook the pasta in plenty of salted water until al dente, following the package directions. Scoop out a mug of cooking water before draining.
Set aside about a third of the roasted carrots. Purée the rest with the tahini, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic and 50 ml hot water until smooth. Add more hot water if needed.
Put the sauce in a large pan or bowl and toss with the warm pasta. Add splashes of pasta cooking water until the sauce clings glossily to the pasta. Stir in the reserved carrots and taste for salt, pepper and lemon.
Divide the pasta among four plates. Finish with parsley, crisp breadcrumbs and chili oil to taste.
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