ABOUT THIS RECIPEBitter greens, spiced sausage
Curly endive has a distinctive, slightly bitter flavor that pairs well with rich, savory meat. In this dish, the greens are joined by Italian sausage: the juicy, spiced meat makes the sauce richer, while the curly endive adds freshness and a hearty bite. Fennel seeds echo the anise notes often found in Italian sausage. If your sausage is already generously seasoned with fennel, use a little less fennel seed.
Finely chop the curly endive so the green leaves and firmer parts of the head are evenly distributed through the pasta. Even after wilting, the greens remain an important part of the sauce, not just a garnish. They release moisture; pasta water helps bind that moisture with the fat from the sausage into a thin, glossy coating. Add it a little at a time: the sauce should cling to the pasta, not pool at the bottom of the pan.
Short pasta such as rigatoni, penne or fusilli works well here. The ridges and hollows catch bits of sausage and curly endive. Cook the pasta until al dente and finish mixing it in the pan so it can absorb some of the sauce. A splash of pasta water is more useful here than extra oil. Salt the cooking water generously, but taste the sauce before adding more salt: Italian sausage and grated hard cheese can both be quite salty already.
Curly endive is generally easy to find; choose a firm head with fresh green leaves and keep it chilled until you’re ready to use it. Can’t find Italian sausage? Use fresh pork sausage and add the fennel seeds as directed. Mild sausage keeps the flavor gentle and spiced; a hot variety adds more heat, but makes the lemon especially welcome. Parmesan is a good choice, but another hard, sharp cheese works too. Don’t leave out the lemon zest: it lifts the savory and bitter flavors beautifully.
Serve the pasta straight away, while the sauce is silky and the curly endive still has a little bite. A simple salad with a tangy dressing goes well alongside, but there’s no need for an extra vegetable side. Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container soon after eating and use within two days. Reheat them in a pan with a small splash of water until piping hot; this will loosen the pasta again.