Searing the escarole gives it tender leaves and lightly bitter, charred edges. Lemon brightens the pasta, ricotta adds creaminess, and toasted breadcrumbs provide a crunchy contrast.
Here, escarole isn’t a side dish to be gently stewed until soft; it’s the star of the show. Cut the leaves into broad strips and sear them briefly over high heat: some pieces will develop dark edges while the thicker parts stay firm. That gentle bitterness pairs well with lemon and mild ricotta. Use a roomy frying pan if possible; in a crowded pan, the escarole releases moisture and steams rather than browns. Cook it in two batches if needed, then return everything to the pan.
Short pasta such as rigatoni, penne or fusilli works well: its shape catches bits of escarole and a little sauce. Cook the pasta until just al dente and save a mugful of cooking water before draining. The starch in the water helps the olive oil, lemon juice and garlic cling to the pasta, without needing any cream. Add the water a splash at a time; the pasta should glisten, not sit in a pool of sauce. Zest the lemon over the pan and add the juice at the end, so its fresh flavor stays bright.
Ricotta adds a soft, creamy bite alongside the slightly bitter greens. Loosen the cheese with a small splash of warm pasta water and a pinch of salt, so it’s easy to spoon over the plates. If ricotta isn’t available, use full-fat cottage cheese, stirred until smooth, or mild fresh goat’s cheese for a more pronounced flavor. The taste will change, though: goat’s cheese is tangier and saltier, so taste before adding extra salt.
The breadcrumbs are easy to make from a slice of sturdy bread, fresh or a day old. Grind or crumble it coarsely, then toast it in olive oil until golden brown. This crunchy element makes the soft cheese and pasta more interesting; add it just before serving, or it will turn soggy. Serve the pasta straight away, with spoonfuls of ricotta and breadcrumbs scattered over the top. A green salad with a sharp vinaigrette makes a good addition if you’d like to round out the meal. In the Netherlands, escarole is a familiar vegetable, especially in the colder months, but it’s generally available year-round; choose a firm head with fresh, crisp leaves.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until just al dente, following the package instructions. Before draining, scoop 250 ml of pasta water out of the pot.
Meanwhile, cut the escarole into strips about 3 cm wide and rinse if needed. Dry well. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a roomy frying pan over high heat. Cook the escarole in one or two batches for 3–4 minutes, until the leaves wilt and develop dark edges in places. Transfer to a plate.
Reduce the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the breadcrumbs to the pan. Toast, tossing often, for 3–4 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Transfer to a plate.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the garlic to the pan. Cook for about 30 seconds, without letting the garlic brown. Add the cooked escarole, lemon zest, chilli flakes and drained pasta.
Pour in 100 ml of pasta water and the lemon juice. Toss for 1–2 minutes, until the pasta glistens and the sauce clings to it. Add a little more pasta water if needed, and season with salt and black pepper.
In a small bowl, loosen the ricotta with 2 tablespoons of warm pasta water and a pinch of salt. Divide the pasta among four plates, spoon the ricotta over the top and sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs. Serve straight away.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.