ABOUT THIS RECIPEOne-pot cauliflower sauce
Pasta e cavolfiore is a Neapolitan pasta dish in which cauliflower is more than a side vegetable: it forms the sauce. The flavor is savory and mild, with a kick from chili and salty depth from anchovies. Some of the vegetable softens enough to break apart as it cooks; the rest gives the pasta texture. Short shapes such as tubetti, ditalini or small shells catch the sauce well. If you use a larger pasta shape, allow for a longer cooking time and add a little extra water if needed.
In the Netherlands, cauliflower is widely available from late spring through autumn, but it is often sold outside that season too. Choose a firm, compact head without dark spots. Cut the florets to roughly the same size so they cook evenly. There’s no need to discard the stem: peel off the tough outer layer, cut the tender inside into small cubes and cook them along with the florets. This way, you use the whole vegetable and make the sauce a little fuller.
The creamy texture here doesn’t come from cream. As it cooks, cauliflower releases starch and small vegetable pieces into the liquid; mashing some of it and cooking the pasta in the same pan thickens the liquid into a sauce. Stir regularly, especially once the pasta goes in, so nothing sticks to the bottom. Add boiling water a little at a time if the pan starts to dry out before the pasta is cooked. The sauce should loosely coat the pasta at the end: it will thicken a little more once the pan is off the heat.
The anchovies almost melt into the oil, making the dish more savory without giving it a pronounced fishy taste. Use fewer if you want a subtler flavor, but don’t simply leave them out without checking the balance; add a little extra salt if needed. Pecorino gives the dish a sharp, salty finish. Parmesan works too, with a slightly milder flavor. Go easy on the salt in the cooking water, since the anchovies and cheese are already salty.
Serve the pasta straight away, with extra grated cheese and black pepper. A simple green salad with a fresh vinaigrette goes well with it and keeps the meal balanced. Quickly reheat any leftovers in a pan with a splash of water to loosen the sauce again. Cool them promptly after the meal, store covered in the refrigerator and use within two days; reheat until piping hot throughout.