ABOUT THIS RECIPESweetly roasted, finished fresh
Parsnips have an earthy, gently sweet flavour that pairs well with the fresh tartness of apple. In this soup, the vegetables first take on some colour in the oven with the onion. Roasting is more than a handy bit of preparation: the edges turn golden brown and give the broth a deeper, savoury flavour. Cut the pieces to roughly the same size so they cook evenly. In the Netherlands, parsnips are most readily available in the colder months, which makes this soup a natural fit for winter produce, but it’s easy to make outside that season too when you can find good parsnips.
After roasting, simmer the vegetables briefly in broth, then blend everything until smooth. An immersion blender works right in the pot; a countertop blender often gives an even silkier texture. Don’t add all the broth at once if you want a thicker soup: start with 750 millilitres and thin it to your liking after blending. Vegetable or chicken broth both work. Choose a broth that isn’t too salty so you can season the soup properly after simmering and blending.
The apple goes into the pot too, bringing acidity and fruitiness without overpowering the parsnip. A firm, tart apple such as Granny Smith gives the clearest fresh contrast. If you have a milder apple, add a little extra lemon juice. Taste after blending to see how much lemon you need: the broth, apple and yoghurt all contribute to the balance. The yoghurt isn’t cooked into the soup, but spooned on top, keeping its flavour fresh and creating a contrast with the pale soup.
Sage is fried briefly in a thin layer of oil until crisp. Let the leaves drain on paper towels and set them aside until serving so they stay crunchy. If you like, you can use the same oil for the chilli oil: stir in the chilli flakes and let the oil cool briefly. Use just a little if you want warmth without pronounced heat. You can leave out the garnish if you don’t have sage, but don’t replace it with large amounts of fresh herbs; they’ll take the flavour in a different direction.
Serve the soup as a starter in small bowls, adding the yoghurt, sage and chilli oil just before serving. With crusty bread, it makes a light lunch. You can store the soup, without the garnishes, covered in the refrigerator and use it within three days. Reheat it gently in a pot, stirring regularly; add a splash of water or broth if needed. Store the yoghurt, sage and chilli oil separately and add them at the table.