ABOUT THIS RECIPEEarthy, fresh and gently spicy
Turnips have an earthy, slightly peppery flavour that mellows as they cook. Small ones work well for this dish: cut them into roughly equal wedges so they cook at the same time. Turnips are often readily available in spring and autumn; choose firm ones with no soft spots. If the greens are still attached, you can save them separately for soup or a stir-fry, but they are not used in this recipe.
A wide frying pan gives the wedges room to brown. Place them cut-side down on the hot pan and leave them alone at first: this helps them colour without needing to stir constantly. Once turned, they finish cooking over medium heat. The aim is not to braise them until completely soft; a little bite keeps their flavour bright and contrasts with the smooth sauce. If your turnips are larger or cut into thicker wedges, allow a few extra minutes.
Tahini thickens and becomes stiff when first mixed with citrus, before the water smooths out the sauce. This is normal. Stir in the water a little at a time until the sauce runs off a spoon but is still thick enough to cling to the turnips. Orange adds rounded, fruity freshness; lemon keeps everything bright. Taste before serving and add another squeeze of lemon or a splash of water if needed. The flavour and thickness of tahini can vary from jar to jar.
Use a ripe orange with fresh juice if possible. No orange on hand? Replace the juice with extra lemon juice and a little water, and add a small drizzle of honey if you like to soften the sharpness. Finely chopped parsley works if you don't have fresh dill, although the aroma will be less anise-like. The chilli flakes are optional: leave them out for a milder sauce or sprinkle them over individual servings for anyone who wants a little heat.
Serve the turnips as a side dish with toasted grains such as bulgur or farro, or alongside lentils and chickpeas. Spoon the sauce onto a platter and arrange the warm turnips on top so their browned sides remain visible. You can also serve some of the sauce on the side; this is handy if you want the turnips to keep their crisp edges. This is a contemporary way of preparing vegetables, not a classic dish from any one specific cuisine.