ABOUT THIS RECIPEBriny, fresh and crispy
Mussels have a distinctive briny flavor of their own and release liquid as they cook. So it’s best to go easy on the salt: taste first before adding any. Use fresh mussels that are closed, or that close when you tap them gently. Discard any with broken shells. Rinse the mussels under cold water and remove any beards; don’t leave them in fresh water for long.
A wide pan with a lid helps the mussels cook quickly and evenly. First, briefly heat the garlic and chili in oil, without letting the garlic brown. Then add the mussels to the pan with a small splash of water. Cover and shake the pan occasionally: the steam opens the shells, and the mussels release liquid. Take them off the heat as soon as they open; cooking them for too long will make the meat tough. Discard any mussels that remain closed after cooking.
Cook the breadcrumbs separately. That way, they have time to turn golden brown and stay crispy instead of soaking up the mussel juices. Stale white bread or sourdough both work; crumble it coarsely by hand or pulse it briefly in a food processor. Fresh bread works too, but usually takes a little longer to toast until dry and crisp. Keep the crumbs aside until just before serving.
Lemon zest adds fragrant citrus oil, while a little juice sharpens the briny flavor. Parsley brings a fresh, green note; flat-leaf parsley is best rather than dried. Adjust the chili to taste, or leave it out if you want the mussels and lemon to take center stage. Serve the mussels straight away in a bowl, with the breadcrumbs sprinkled over or in a small bowl alongside. An extra piece of bread is handy for soaking up the juices with garlic and lemon.