ABOUT THIS RECIPEGolden Edges, a Fresh Counterpoint
Polenta is cornmeal cooked with liquid until it becomes a soft porridge; its texture can range from firm to almost runny. For this main course, creamy, spoonable polenta works well: it catches the mushroom juices without overpowering the green sauce. Use quick-cooking polenta if you want to get dinner on the table quickly, and follow the package directions, as cooking time varies depending on the grind. A splash of milk and a little butter round out the texture; grated Parmesan adds a savory, salty flavor.
The mixed mushrooms bring variety in texture and flavor. Chestnut mushrooms are firm and mild, while shiitake and oyster mushrooms have a more pronounced, meaty texture. Use whatever looks good and is available; this dish works well with just chestnut mushrooms, too. Mushrooms are available all year round. Foraging isn’t necessary and requires reliable expertise; cultivated varieties make this recipe easy to plan.
The key technique is frying over high heat in a large pan, in several batches. If the pan is too crowded, the mushrooms release a lot of moisture and cook through rather than browning. Leave them undisturbed for a little while after turning them, so they have time to brown against the hot pan. Add salt toward the end to prevent them from releasing moisture too soon. A wide frying pan helps, but it’s better to cook an extra batch than pile everything on top of itself.
Salsa verde means green sauce, but its exact ingredients vary by cuisine and recipe. Here, it’s a simple Italian-inspired mix of parsley, capers, lemon and olive oil. Chop the ingredients with a knife for a sauce with some texture; a blender makes it smoother and can turn the parsley dark more quickly. Taste after mixing: capers vary in saltiness and lemons in acidity, so adjust the lemon juice or salt if needed. No capers on hand? Finely chopped green olives also add saltiness and a satisfying bite.
Serve right away so the polenta stays warm and soft and the mushrooms keep their browned edges. Put the salsa on the table separately or spoon it over the dish just before serving. A simple green salad with a tangy dressing goes well with it; bread isn’t necessary, but it can help mop up the sauce. Cover any leftovers and refrigerate within two hours, then eat them within two days. Reheat the polenta gently in a pan with a splash of water or milk, stirring regularly; reheat the mushrooms separately so they don’t become unnecessarily soft.