Maitake develops crisp edges in a hot pan while staying juicy inside. Ponzu butter brings citrus and umami, while sansho and spring onion finish the dish with a fresh, gently tingling note.
Maitake is made up of thin, fan-shaped lobes that develop different textures as they cook: the delicate edges turn crisp, while the thicker pieces stay juicy and firm. So tear the mushroom into large pieces by hand rather than cutting it into small ones. This preserves those differences and keeps the pan from filling with lots of loose, fragile shreds. Fresh maitake is generally easy to find; choose specimens that feel firm and look dry, not slimy.
The pan needs to be very hot before the maitake goes in. Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture, and a pan that’s too crowded or not hot enough will steam them rather than brown them. If needed, cook them in two batches and leave space between the pieces. Let them sit first so they make contact with the pan; turn them only once the underside has browned. A wide frying pan works well, but a cast-iron pan is also fine. Use a neutral oil for frying so the maitake’s earthy flavor and the citrus in the sauce stay bright.
Ponzu combines soy sauce with citrus, giving the butter both salty umami and a fresh, tart counterpoint. The exact flavor varies by brand. So taste the sauce before adding extra salt; you usually won’t need any for this dish. Add the ponzu only once the mushroom is cooked, and take the pan off the heat before tossing everything together. This keeps the butter sauce glossy and prevents the citrus from cooking for too long. If you don’t have ponzu, use a mixture of soy sauce and lemon juice, with a small splash of rice vinegar if you like; it comes close to the balance, but isn’t an identical substitute.
Sansho has a citrusy aroma and a gentle tingling sensation. Sprinkle it over the dish sparingly so it supports the ponzu rather than overpowering it. Ground Sichuan pepper can be used as an alternative, though the flavor is different and often stronger; start with a small pinch. Spring onion adds a fresh, crisp bite. Serve the maitake straight away as a small starter or side dish, for example alongside rice and a simple vegetable. Cover any leftovers and refrigerate within two hours, then use within three days. Reheat them thoroughly in a frying pan; the mushroom will be less crisp than when freshly cooked.
If needed, wipe the maitake clean with a slightly damp cloth and tear it into large pieces about 4–6 cm across. Thinly slice the spring onion into rings.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high to high heat. Arrange the maitake in a single layer in the pan; cook in two batches if the pan gets too crowded.
Cook the pieces for 3 minutes without moving them, until the underside is well browned. Turn them and cook for another 2–3 minutes, until several edges are crisp and the thicker parts are cooked through.
Turn the heat to low. Add the butter and toss once it has melted. Take the pan off the heat, pour in the ponzu and toss again.
Transfer the maitake and sauce to a serving dish. Sprinkle with sansho and spring onion, and serve straight away.
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