Leeks develop deep, sweet edges in the frying pan while staying soft inside. Bright lemon yogurt, dill and toasted buckwheat balance acidity, freshness and crunch.
Leeks have enough flavor to take center stage, especially when you give them a good sear first. The cut side develops brown, almost caramelized spots, while the white and light-green interior turns tender and juicy. A splash of stock helps the leeks cook through without drying out. Lemon yogurt makes the dish fresher; dill adds a herby, slightly anise-like note that goes well with the leeks’ mellow onion flavor.
In the Netherlands, leeks are especially familiar as a cold-weather vegetable, though they’re generally available all year. Choose firm leeks with fresh green leaves and white stalks without any slimy spots. Trim off the root end and rinse the leeks well after cutting them in half: grit can get trapped between the layers. Let the halves drain, then pat them dry so they brown in the pan instead of steaming straight away.
A large frying pan with a lid is handy. First, sear the leeks cut-side down and give them time to brown; moving them too often slows the process. A little stock and a lid then help the insides cook evenly. Use vegetable or chicken stock, preferably not too salty, as some of the liquid may cook off. A well-fitting lid helps; if you don’t have one, you can cover the pan with a suitably sized baking tray.
Buckwheat groats aren’t a grain, but their toasted, nutty flavor makes them a good crunchy counterpoint here. Toast them in a dry pan, keeping them moving so they brown evenly without burning. Use whole, hulled buckwheat groats, not buckwheat flour or pre-cooked kasha. If you can’t find them, toasted sunflower seeds add a similar crunch, though the flavor will be different. For a thicker sauce, use full-fat Greek yogurt; regular yogurt works too, but makes the sauce thinner.
Serve the leeks warm or at room temperature, with the yogurt underneath or alongside so the browned side stays visible. The dish goes well with fried potatoes, legumes or a simple omelet, and also works as part of a spread of several side dishes. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and eat them within three days. Reheat the leeks thoroughly; keep the buckwheat separate and sprinkle it over just before serving so it stays crunchy.
Trim the root ends and the darkest green leaves from the leeks. Halve them lengthwise, rinse the layers well and pat the halves dry.
Toast the buckwheat groats in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 4–6 minutes. Shake the pan regularly; take the groats out as soon as they smell fragrant and begin to turn lightly golden.
Heat the olive oil in the same pan over medium heat. Place the leek halves cut-side down and cook for 5–7 minutes, until deeply golden on that side. Turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes.
Pour the stock into the pan and add the salt. Cover and cook the leeks over low heat for 10–14 minutes, until a knife tip slides in easily. Remove the lid and briefly reduce any liquid left in the pan, if needed.
Meanwhile, stir the yogurt until smooth with the lemon zest, lemon juice, dill and a few twists of black pepper. Taste and add salt if needed.
Spread the lemon yogurt over a serving platter. Arrange the leeks on top, browned side up, and sprinkle with the toasted buckwheat. Serve straight away.
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