ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe balance is in the wok
Pad Thai is known for its combination of rice noodles, egg, bean sprouts and a punchy sauce. In this version, prawns add a mild, slightly sweet flavour, while chives bring a fresh, green note. The sauce is made with tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar: tamarind adds fruity sourness, fish sauce brings salt and savoury depth, and palm sugar rounds out the flavours. None of the three should overpower the others. Taste the sauce before you start cooking; tamarind products vary widely in sourness and concentration.
Use dried, flat rice noodles about 3 millimetres wide. Soak them in lukewarm water until pliable but still a little firm in the middle. They’ll finish cooking in the wok, where they absorb the sauce. Don’t boil them in a pan of water first: they’ll soften more quickly and break more easily when stir-fried. If your noodles are still stiff after soaking, give them more time to soak rather than boiling them.
A hot wok and small batches matter more than constant stirring. If the pan is too full, the ingredients cool down and the noodles are more likely to steam than fry. So cook each portion separately and have all the ingredients ready beforehand: once the wok is hot, everything moves quickly. Stir the sauce until smooth first so the palm sugar dissolves. If palm sugar is hard to find, you can use light brown sugar; the flavour will be a little less caramel-like. Ideally, choose tamarind paste or concentrate with no added sugar, and use a little less if the paste is very sharp.
Serve the noodles straight away, with chopped peanuts, lime wedges and chilli to taste. The peanuts add a dry crunch, while a squeeze of lime just before eating makes the sauce taste fresher again. Bean sprouts and chives are at their best when warmed through briefly right at the end. Leftover pad Thai can be cooled quickly, covered and stored in the fridge, then reheated within two days until piping hot throughout; the noodles will be softer, though. Store the lime and peanuts separately if you’ve already prepared them, so they retain their fresh flavour and crunch.