ABOUT THIS RECIPEDark Edges, Tender Noodles
Pad see ew is a classic Thai stir-fry in which wide rice noodles take center stage. The flavor is mostly savory, with a gentle sweetness from dark soy sauce; the dish is generally less sour and spicy than pad thai. That’s why chili vinegar is served on the side here: the noodle stir-fry stays balanced, and everyone can add a little tang and heat to taste.
Fresh, wide rice noodles are best. They’re soft and pliable, and develop dark, lightly caramelized spots easily in a hot wok. Fresh noodles sometimes stick together; gently separate them when they’re at room temperature. If they’re very firm, warm them briefly according to the package directions. Cooked, dried wide rice noodles work too, but cook them just until al dente and drain them well so no extra moisture gets into the wok.
Chinese broccoli, also called gai lan, has firm stems and leaves that wilt more quickly. Slice the stems thinly and cut the leaves into larger pieces so they cook at the same time. The stems can retain a little bite; the leaves will soften and soak up the sauce. If Chinese broccoli isn’t available, broccolini is a good substitute. Regular broccoli works too: cut the florets into small, thin pieces and slice the peeled stem thinly.
A hot wok and enough room to cook matter more than complicated equipment. If needed, cook the chicken and vegetables in batches, and add the noodles only once the wok is hot again. Don’t stir constantly: letting the noodles sit against the hot surface for a moment gives them that characteristic toasted flavor. A large frying pan works too; it’s better to cook two batches one after the other than everything at once, because an overcrowded pan cools down and steams the ingredients rather than frying them.
Light soy sauce adds salt and savoriness, while dark soy sauce mainly gives the dish its deep color and a rounder, slightly sweet flavor. Oyster sauce makes the sauce richer; a little sugar helps bring the flavors together. Serve immediately, with the chili vinegar on the side if you like. Cool leftovers quickly, store them covered in the fridge and heat them through in a pan the next day. The noodles often firm up a little in storage, so add a small splash of water when reheating.