Pad Kra Pao with Ground Pork and Holy Basil

The aroma of holy basil over high heat

Pad kra pao is a popular Thai stir-fry in which kra pao, or holy basil, takes center stage. The leaves smell peppery and herbaceous, with a different aroma from the sweeter Thai basil you often find at Asian grocery stores. Along with garlic, chili and ground pork, they create a distinctly savory flavor without needing much sauce. This isn’t a dish where the basil is just a garnish: the leaves are briefly stir-fried and define its character.

A wok or heavy skillet works well, as long as it gets hot enough. Over high heat, the pork can brown quickly in places instead of releasing its liquid and stewing. That gives it a deeper roasted flavor and keeps the cooking time short. So, spread the pork in a single layer where possible, and only stir once the meat has had a chance to color against the pan. If your pan is small, cook in two batches; an overcrowded pan cools down quickly.

The seasonings are deliberately simple. Fish sauce adds salt and umami, while light soy sauce brings a rounded savoriness. A little sugar softens the sharp edges of the chili and salt, but the dish shouldn’t be sweet or saucy. Adjust the amount of chili to your taste; Thai bird’s-eye chili is powerful, and the heat varies from pepper to pepper. If you can’t find fresh bird’s-eye chili, you can use another red chili, but the result may be milder.

Holy basil can be hard to find outside stores specializing in Thai ingredients. You can use Thai basil as an alternative, but consider it a practical substitute: its aroma and flavor are different. Regular Italian basil is less suitable, as it doesn’t come close to the distinctive herbaceous profile. Wash the basil and dry the leaves well; wet leaves cool down the pan. Strip them from the stems and set them aside until the pork is almost cooked.

Serve the stir-fry straight away with jasmine rice, which soaks up the salty, spicy flavors. A fried egg is a popular addition: the soft yolk mixes with the pork and rice. If you have leftovers, cool them quickly and refrigerate, covered, within two hours; use within two days. Reheat the pork and rice until piping hot all the way through. Don’t leave the rice at room temperature for an extended period.