Firmly seared oyster mushrooms get a thin, savory-sweet glaze of lemongrass, garlic and fish sauce. Rice makes the dish filling; lime, mint and coriander add fresh, green notes.
This is a contemporary, Vietnamese-inspired dish, not a set classic with one prescribed recipe. The combination is all about contrast: oyster mushrooms cook up golden brown and juicy, while lemongrass and garlic perfume the pan. Fish sauce adds salty umami, and a little sugar helps the sauce turn glossy and caramelize slightly. Lime and fresh herbs go in at the end, so their fresh flavor doesn’t cook away.
Oyster mushrooms are generally available year-round. Choose firm specimens with dry, unblemished caps; very wet mushrooms don’t brown as easily. Tear them into strips instead of slicing them thinly. Their ragged edges get plenty of contact with the hot pan and brown well, while thicker pieces stay juicy. Cook in batches if your pan is small: a crowded pan releases moisture and steams the mushrooms rather than browning them.
Lemongrass is most aromatic in the soft, pale lower part of the stalk. Remove the tough outer leaves and chop the core as finely as you can; coarse pieces are tough. If the stalk is firm, first bruise it with the flat side of a knife. Briefly cook the lemongrass and garlic in oil before adding the liquid. This lets their aromas spread through the glaze without cooking the garlic long enough to turn bitter.
Fish sauces vary in saltiness from brand to brand, so taste the glaze before adding extra salt. If you’re cooking vegetarian, you can replace the fish sauce with soy sauce; it gives a different, less pronounced fish flavor, but is still savory. If you make this swap, use a little less to start with and taste again. No fresh lemongrass stalks? Finely chopped frozen lemongrass works too; follow the package for the amount. The sugar is deliberately modest: the goal is a rounded, glossy sauce, not a sweet coating.
Serve straight away with plain rice to soak up the savory sauce. Put plenty of mint, coriander and lime on the table: the herbs add fragrance and freshness, and a squeeze of lime cuts through the umami. If you like a little more heat, a bit of fresh chili goes well, but it isn’t needed to balance the dish. The mushrooms are also delicious with rice noodles; if using them, reduce the sauce a little more so it clings to the mushrooms.
Rinse the rice until the water is mostly clear. Cook according to the package directions and keep covered and warm.
Tear the oyster mushrooms into wide strips. Remove the tough outer leaves from the lemongrass and finely chop the soft lower part. Finely chop the garlic.
Stir the fish sauce, sugar and water together in a small bowl.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high to high heat. Cook the oyster mushrooms in two batches, about 3 minutes per batch, until browned all over and most of the moisture has evaporated. Transfer them out of the pan.
Turn the heat down to medium. Cook the lemongrass and garlic in the pan for about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the fish sauce mixture and let it bubble briefly.
Return the oyster mushrooms to the pan and toss for 1–2 minutes, until the glaze is glossy and clings to the mushrooms. Remove the pan from the heat and squeeze half the lime over the top.
Spoon the rice into bowls and divide the oyster mushrooms among them. Tear the mint and coriander roughly and scatter over the top. Cut the remaining lime into wedges and serve alongside.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.