Oven-Baked Tomates à la Provençale

A breadcrumb topping that lets the tomatoes shine

Tomates à la provençale is a classic French side dish in which tomatoes, garlic, parsley, olive oil and breadcrumbs take centre stage. The combination is simple, but the proportions make a difference: the breadcrumbs should turn light and crisp while the tomatoes stay juicy and hold their shape. The dish goes well with grilled fish or meat, but can also be part of a table spread with bread and other summery dishes.

Choose tomatoes that smell ripe and feel firm. Very soft tomatoes collapse more quickly as they bake and release more moisture, which can make the breadcrumb topping soggy sooner. Ripe tomatoes are often easier to find in summer; out of season, it’s better to look for firm tomatoes with a pronounced aroma than to focus on a particular colour or shape. Medium-sized tomatoes are practical because they cook evenly and fit easily in a baking dish.

Breadcrumbs absorb some of the tomato juices and olive oil, forming a crisp layer on top. Homemade crumbs made from lightly dried bread give a coarser bite; fine breadcrumbs work too, but bake into a denser topping. Flat-leaf parsley is a good choice, as its flavour holds up alongside the garlic. Finely chop the garlic so it’s evenly distributed and doesn’t form large, sharp-tasting pieces. Olive oil helps the crumbs brown and gives the tomatoes a full flavour.

The oven needs to be hot enough to colour the topping before the tomatoes fall apart completely. So keep an eye on the colour of the breadcrumbs during the last few minutes: ovens vary, and very fine crumbs brown faster than coarse ones. The tomatoes are ready when they feel soft when pierced with a knife but still hold their shape. If the crumbs are already golden brown while the tomatoes are still firm, loosely cover the dish with foil.

Serve the tomatoes warm or at room temperature, so the juices on the dish can become part of the meal. A piece of sturdy bread is handy for mopping them up; alongside grilled fish, the tomatoes make a fresh, savoury contrast. Refrigerate any leftovers in a covered container within two hours and keep for up to three days. Reheat thoroughly in the oven; the breadcrumbs will be less crisp than they were straight after baking. A few drops of olive oil just before serving will give them a little shine again.